Shelly 1 and PIR

    Hi, hoping someone can help.

    Using the Shelly APP - Is it possible to put a Shelly 1 inside a 240v PIR and use the 'detached switch" to A) send a message for Alexa to read "Movement detected" ( Ive done this part) and then B) only power the External lights ( attached to the output) sunset to sunrise...

    In short, always get the message, but only actually activate the relay and as such lights, sunset to sunrise?

    This is for an external security light that I already have up. At the minute Im stuck getting the 2 things separated and timed.

    ( Im ok at fitting these and have quite a a few in the house - Im simply going to use the 240v output from the PIR that would normally power the lights , to activate the switch part if the the shelly)

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von Hughj (8. August 2021 um 22:10)

    You need a compatible PIR to use as Shelly input.

    If the PIR output doesn't has a 100% dry output contact (due to overvoltage protection device or whatever), the Shelly SW input won't work, as Shelly will always see a high input signal.

    This can be double checked by taking a look at input state (once activates in settings) shown at the on/off symbol of the APP (part of the symbol will turn into light blue if Shelly is seeing a high input?

    If PIR output contact is off the color of the symbol has to be gray.

    If this is the problem it can either be solved by using a compatible PIR sensor, or by using a interposing relay.

    PIR sensors without relay contact (electronically switching) are often incompatible.

    1st test can be to listen at the housing of PIR sensor when it get's activated. If a clicking noise can be heard, the chance that it is a compatible sensor are not too bad.

    But still there can be electronic components before or after contact, which can make it incompatible.

    On open SW input of the Shelly one can measure approx. 1/2 grid voltage (needed to use the Shelly for activating if Life or Neutral is used).

    If this 1/2 grid voltage (in our region usually 230 ... 240VAC) gets too much influenced (pulled up or down) by use of not 100% dry contacts, the Shelly always see's a high Input on SW.

    Thanks Utschu - So the 240v output from the PIR ( the one that normally powers the lights) is not necessarily clean. If So I can put a relay in place...but can you have 2 separate events on the shelly 1, one of them on a sunset sunrise timer?

    Correct, regarding your summary of PIR output/contact.

    Yes, this shouldn't be of a problem:

    I have a sunset criterion on one Shelly 1 for example, which turns on two living room lights a preset time after sunset, configured in Weekly shedule. Apart of that I can always switch the light on and off by a wall switch wired to SW input of the same Shelly.
    Further the light gets turned off at 23:00 by another Weekly shedule.

    Zitat

    1st test can be to listen at the housing of PIR sensor when it get's activated. If a clicking noise can be heard, the chance that it is a compatible sensor are not too bad.

    But still there can be electronic components before or after contact, which can make it incompatible.

    On open SW input of the Shelly one can measure approx. 1/2 grid voltage (needed to use the Shelly for activating if Life or Neutral is used).

    If this 1/2 grid voltage (in our region usually 230 ... 240VAC) gets too much influenced (pulled up or down) by use of not 100% dry contacts, the Shelly always see's a high Input on SW.

    Hi,

    I hear the clicking but shelly 1 doesn‘t recognize any of the pir state.

    When PIR detects a motion there is a voltage on the SW.(Tested with the voltage test screwdriver) 😊

    Shelly doesn‘t seem to see any voltage on the SE input.

    Any idea why?

    Thanks!

    Ach, PIR is GTV CR-7 for indoor.

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