Hello! I have a slightly unusual 3-way (US) light that I wanted to smarten. There aren't enough wires in the the walls for me to connect both of my wall switches (momentary switches) to Sx so I read that they can be connected to N instead. I've done this and it works but now there is a very noticeable buzzing when the light is on. Previously, the switches were standard, dumb 3-way switches and I tried re-wiring the 3-way with a TP-Link Kasa 3-way switch on one end just to check but neither of these circumstances created the buzzing; just with the Shelly 1L. Any idea why this is happening? Diagram attached.
LED Light Buzzing After Shelly Install
-
- Shelly 1L
-
MeCJay12 -
11. Juli 2022 um 06:19 -
Unerledigt
-
-
Welcome to the forum!
Switching the SW input of a Shelly 1L with neutral potential drives a current of approximately 2,2mA through the innards behind terminal SW. This is substantially a resistor of 47kΩ and a diode. Hence, the Shelly is loaded with an extra dissipation loss of 280mW, which will drive the resistor to its limits! Consequently, I would not recommend to wire the Shelly 1L in this configuration!
Alternatively, a simple Shelly 1 would do the job: Both switches should handle live potential which can be easily managed by re-wiring the switches. The extra terminal I at Shelly 1 must be connected to live wire. The rest remains the same…
Please have a look at the forum‘s lexicon section - you may find the appropriate wiring diagrams here!
-
For anyone reading the future: connecting the switches to L and Sw does not work. The switches can turn the light off but not back on. I have reverted to N and Sw with the intent to live with the buzzing.
Re: Previous comment. The switches are momentary switches so any load they may create on the Shelly will be momentary. Additionally, and I should have mentioned this before, the LED driver is buzzing not the Shelly.
-
The buzzing of the LED driver is a consequence of the very special switching system the Shelly 1L has: Due to the fact, 1L has to work without neutral wire, it contains not only a simple relay but a power transistor, which is involved in switching on and off. Very sensitive LEDs tend to flickering and or buzzing if connected with Shelly 1L.
As I mentioned earlier, a simple Shelly 1 (or Shelly plus 1) would do a significantly better job in this scenario…
And yes: Shelly 1L does not switch with SW connected to L! SW input must be switched to Sx or O (or N, if momentary buttons are used). You may find the appropriate diagrams in the „lexicon“ part of this forum.
-
As mentioned by thgoebel, the Shelly 1 or Plus 1 is a better. When lights flicker, or make noise they are telling you they are unhappy. best to put it back, and start over.
A very useful tool that can be used to determine how three way switches are wired is a Non Contact Voltage Tester.
The person that did this blog spent a great deal of time documenting US three way wiring. take your time and look at it:Smart Three Way Switch Installation | DIY Smart Home Guy
Also, here is a picture of my switch installThree way shelly 1 Plus.jpg