Wiring for Outdoor Extension Lead

  • I previously put together a 'smart' outdoor extension cable to control lights in my yard using a smart switch from another manufacturer. For various reasons I decided to replace this switch and opted to use a Shelly 1 as the new switch.

    It took me a while to figure out which wire is which in the cable (Black - Live, White - Neutral, Blue - Ground). Based on others who have done something similar I attached the incoming live wire to the L(-) terminal while connecting the incoming neutral to the N(+) terminal together with the neutral wire for the ouput side. The live wire for the output is connected to the O terminal. I have attached a picture of the wiring.

    After a lot playing around with the Shelly app I eventually managed to see and control the switch from my phone. However I don't seem to have any power at the receptacle terminations on the power cord. I'm unsure whether this is a problem with my wiring of the Shelly or with the power receptacles themselves (the cord has been outdoors for quite a while). I realize that I can use my multimeter to test for AC power at the switch by connecting the probes across the live out wire and the ground however I must admit to being somewhat of a wimp when it comes to testing live electrical wires!

    Update: I used a non-contact voltage tester that appears to confirm that there is AC voltage on the black output lead (tester turns red and beeps). What is strange is that the on/off switch on my phone appears to be reversed, i.e. pressing the switch when it says 'turn on' appears to turn off the switch and vice versa.

    I'd appreciate any feedback regarding my wiring and/or how to troubleshoot why there is no power when I connect lights to the power receptacles on the outlet of the extension cord.

    IMG_4443.jpeg

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von BigTex100 (13. April 2023 um 00:14)

  • Welcome to the forum. . :)

    1.The circuit will not work because terminal I is not connected! (Shorten wires recommended!)

    2. Since it's your first shelly check it out:

    66er
    11. August 2019 um 12:22

    (especially B2 und B6)

    and:

    66er
    4. August 2021 um 20:47
  • You need a input cable for the I input. The Shelly 1 has a potential free contact, therefore it needs an additional bridge from L to I

    e.g. the red line

    [Blockierte Grafik: https://smarthome-forum.eu/media/195-ar768-ausschaltung-png/]

    ⚠️

    And please shorten the stripped cable ends or put a heat shrink tube over them.

    That looks really dangerous 😱⚡️

    elektroman:~#

    Mein Zoo: 15xShelly2.5, 7xShellyPlugS, 4xShellyDimmer2, 2xShelly1PM, 8xShelly1, 2xShellyi3, 1xShellyPlus i4, 2xShellyFlood, 2xShellyDoorWindow2, 2xShellyButton1, 2xShellyButton, 2xSOnOff4CH, 1xSOnOff2CH, Nanoleaf, Meross, Govee, Tado, Tuya, Xiaomi, SwitchBot ...

    Raspberry's, OpenHAB, Pi-hole

  • Thanks for the feedback.

    For clarification, you are saying that the incoming live (black) should connect to both the L(-) and the I terminals on the Shelly.

    And yes, I will shorten the ends of the stripped cables.

  • Correct - L to I

    I is a relay Input and O the output

    [Blockierte Grafik: https://kb.shelly.cloud/__attachments/57049089/1-internal-schematics.png?inst-v=292893a0-267a-4633-a26a-4fd43c4e4276]

    see:

    Shelly 1
    Shelly 1 is a small form factor smart switch with potential-free contacts, which allows remote control of electric appliances through a mobile phone, tablet,…
    kb.shelly.cloud

    elektroman:~#

    Mein Zoo: 15xShelly2.5, 7xShellyPlugS, 4xShellyDimmer2, 2xShelly1PM, 8xShelly1, 2xShellyi3, 1xShellyPlus i4, 2xShellyFlood, 2xShellyDoorWindow2, 2xShellyButton1, 2xShellyButton, 2xSOnOff4CH, 1xSOnOff2CH, Nanoleaf, Meross, Govee, Tado, Tuya, Xiaomi, SwitchBot ...

    Raspberry's, OpenHAB, Pi-hole