Possible to send signal to wall switch when Shelly 2.5 gets an instruction?

    Good morning,

    I'm installing some Shelly 2.5 behind my wall switches to operate my roller/shutters.. they work fine when I wire them up as shown in the manual..

    Current Setup.jpgshelly Setup.jpg

    Problem is: in one room I have 2 roller/shutters that are not connected to each other (seperate cable to each of them) that are controlled by a single switch.. So when I install the Shelly I need 5 WAGO's (they call those that here, don't know how they are called in english, basically it allows for multiple wires to come in and out to a single point) for Neutral, Line, Ground, Output 1 and Output 2 and I just can't get them behind the switch..just not enough room..

    So I tried wiring them up so I forgo the Wago for both outputs and plug 1 wire into the socket and 1 into output port, and then the other wire from the socket goes into the Switch port of the Shelly.. but now when I just the wall switch they work, but when I want to use them remotely, only 1 motor works because the shelly doesn't talk to the switch to say "hey, you need to lower the other one too".. Is there a way to get around this without running extra wires (I can't get to the motors themselves, they are walled in)

    Desired.jpg

    Hope the images made it somewhat clear

    It might be clearer if you just show a diagram with only the live connections and remove the blue neutral and green earth (as they don't matter as much).

    On diagram 1 you used the brown wires to the shutter for Up and black for Down, I don't know if that is to match the wires inside your switch but in diagram 2 they differ, which is confusing.

    Also in diagram 2, I cannot see how that works at all - for example, if you press "UP" then the SW2 is made live ,and so I assume O2 is made live which means Shutter 1 has both UP and DOWN inputs (brown and black) live at the same time.

    You mentioned WAGO connectors and not having space... in the UK we have WAGO connectors. I used to use the larger 222 but I recently discovered the 221 range which are a little smaller. Would that help you?

    I realized my images where not clear at all (thx caravanboy) so I tried to rework the diagrams to make it more understandable.. I'm still new to this

    this is how shelly should be wired (left out all the standard wiring):

    shelly_before.jpg

    I was wondering if it would be possible (probably in the way of software/firmware update).. to get the SW ports on the shelly to send a signal back to the switch so the other port on the wall switch gets the signal (current) to open/close the blinds.
    This way I can leave 2 WAGO's out and I can fit everything inside the wall box..

    shelly_after.jpg

    For example:

    I use the wall switch button "UP":

    - signal/current goes from the first port to the Shelly SW1, which triggers O1 so motor 1 goes up. Motor 2 is triggered directly from the other port on the switch.. no problem

    When using the Shelly App:

    - SW1 is triggered, so O1 makes motor 1 go up.. but Motor2 doesn't get a signal at all.. Would it be possible to have SW1 give signal/current back to wall switch? Or only possible in one-way direction due to hardware constraint?

    caravanboy : Thank you for taking the time to reply, however I'm already using the 221 versions, but I have 3 5-ports for ground, neutral and live wires and those 2 3-ports are just to much :( .. I've looked into using ferrules but don't think those would work..

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von Little#Pine#28733 (8. März 2021 um 09:40)

    Hi, sorry for taking so long to reply to you but I did not get any notification emails. I don't know if you have sorted this now anyway?

    I doubt that you can make the SW outputs go LIVE when the Shelly App is activated. You will have to connect O1 directly to M1 and M2 (up) and O2 directly to M1 and M2 (down).

    If lack of space is the problem and you cannot get crimp ferrules to work, have you considered soldering the cables as a last resort?