Beiträge von gevauem

  • Doorbell

    As I’m not 100% certain the ADC measuring works with AC I’d connect the S+ to wire 7 or 8 of the Shelly which should then be recognized by the Shelly as switch (1 or 2) on when there is current and off when there isn’t.

    Otherwise, with the ADC measuring it would be wire 3 of the Shelly to S+ and wire 6 of the Shelly to S- .

    One logical issue that remains is that the door bell notification will only work if you haven’t switched the output off that supplies your combine unit with power to begin with, and I suspect that’s not ideal...

    Best,

    Georg

  • Doorbell

    Hi Bruno,

    I‘m not familiar with the kind of system you’re working with, so a lot will be guesswork.

    There are two connectors at the unit called combine marked S+ and S-, leading to an optional additional bell, if my limited French capabilities don’t fail me, so that would be a good option for you to connect one of the Shelly switches or the ADC input.

    But I don’t think your wiring as drawn will work.

    I understand you take the power the Shelly from the 12V supply, but the switched output won’t do what you would need it to do to work in your setup.

    So don’t interrupt both lines to the combine, but just the 0-line and lead that interrupted line into and out of OUT1 at the Shelly. That way, fed with power as currently drawn, the Shelly should be able to switch on or off the whole system. But: you may be overloading the Shelly‘s „relay“, think it can handle 100 mA only, and I strongly suspect your system will take more, you’d have to measure.

    The same is true for your Output 2 that is supposed to actually operate the door opener. In both cases you may have to use small 12V relays that can handle the power needed.

    I hope this makes sense.

    Good luck!

    Best,

    Georg

  • Doorbell

    That’s fantastic!

    Can you, out of my curiosity and potentially other people‘s interest, let us know how you got power for the Uni and what voltages you found in the intercom and what the behavior of the bell signal is?

    P.S.: I have set up two additional notifications: one popping up on my and my better half‘s phone telling me when I or she switch of the door bell, the other if after 90 minutes it’s still off, just in case we forget after baby’s nap...

    Thanks a lot,

    Georg

  • Doorbell

    Okay, the Call sign should be 5 and 7, where 5 is common (assumingly „minus“) and 7 is the actual signal („plus“).

    You need to measure the voltage between those terminals first and see the voltage, both normally and when door bell is being rung to make sure the voltages are within the range that the Uni is okay with.

    If that’s the case - and if my -/+ assumption is correct, too: Pin 3 of the Uni (white) goes to 7 on your door phone, Pin 6 (green) goes to 5 on your door phone.

    Then you have to find power for the Uni Pins 1 and 2. I’m not sure you’ll find it within your phone, so you May have to use an external adapter (e.g. to 12V DC from a wall socket (hopefully) nearby. If you’re really lucky there is usable constant power source in the phone somewhere but it also needs to be able to handle the Shelly‘s consumption without the voltage collapsing.

    If you have both you can set up a scene that notifies you once there is a certain voltage on the ADC sensor (i.e. the one you measured when bell is rung).

    I suppose you could alternatively hook up the bell signal to the input buttons of the Uni, but the above works for me fine.

    In your pic it looks like a cable is loose, but I’m sure you saw that.

    Best of luck,

    Georg

  • Doorbell

    Unless someone by coincidence recognizes your intercom model and knows exactly how it operates I’m afraid you may not get help.

    Can you specify the exact type so one cans find out?

    The sheer number of wires attached might indicate you’re lucky but we need to know the voltage, whether one cable transmits the doorbell signal and nothing else or if everything is transmitted in one wire (with different voltages and the speech signal modulated on it (like newer Siedle systems common in Germany...).

    Best,

    Georg

  • Toggle

    Ich bin mir nicht sicher was genau Deine Anforderungen sind. Hast Du einen physischen Schalter angeschlossen am Shelly bzw. hast das vor, oder hast Du diese Möglichkeit nicht?

    Ansonsten lassen sich bei den meisten Schalterprogrammen leicht Einzel- gegen Doppelschalter bzw. -taster tauschen, und falls keine physische Verbindung zum Shelly möglich ist, könntest Du stattdessen ein I3 dahinterhängen, der dann die Befehle an den 2.5 weitergibt.

    Gruß

    Georg

  • Wire Shelly 1PM behind UK light switch

    Thank you for the background, very interesting.

    I remember there were times where it was prohibited to install a socket in a bathroom, or at least I was told so... I suppose that has changed in the meantime, too, but it goes to show how big the differences were and still are between countries...

    Best,

    Georg

  • Shelly1 to control FAN on/off

    Well that’s one of the leads through which the power travels to the fan, and if that’s fused at 3 amps I personally (!!!) would be relatively relaxed here. What diameters are currently used? From the picture I’d say 1.5 mm^2? I wouldn’t go under 1mm. But what you can do, come to think of it, is connect the „I“ terminal in the Shelly with the incoming (thick) lead and connect it with a thinner wire to the „L“ terminal in the Shelly. That way we should be good, as the Shelly‘s consumption is negligible...

    Best, Georg

  • Shelly UNI und elektr. Türöffner wollen nicht so ganz - merkwürdiges Phänomen

    Ich glaube ich hab mein Problem gelöst. Oder jedenfalls umgangen. Ich habe mir die gleiche Szene nochmal eingerichtet, aber als Ausgangspunkt den anderen, ersten Kanal von meinem UNI. Und diese da, die Szene funktioniert genau wie sie soll. Scheint mir darauf hinzudeuten, dass auch wenn es so aussieht, als ob die ADC-Messung für Szenen bei beiden Kanälen zur Verfügung steht, es eben nur beim ersten geht.

    Vielen Dank an alle, die sich in mein (zugegebenermaßen nicht besonders unerträgliches) Problem reingedacht haben...

    Wenn ich fertig bin, fasse ich meine Bastelei für die fertigen Projekte zusammen.

    Danke und Gruß

    Georg

  • Eltakoersatz im Treppenhaus aber Licht bleibt aus?

    Sorry, sollte erst ganz aufwachen vor dem Lesen, schon gar vor dem Schreiben...

    Ansonsten wäre ein versehentlicher Anschluss des Dauer-L an Shelly an den geschalteten L, die von den Tastern kommen, eine Erklärung, aber dann wäre Dein shelly ja nicht online wenn Du den Schalter nicht gedrückt hältst.

    Hoffe der Reset bringt’s.

    Gruß

    Georg

  • Shelly1 to control FAN on/off

    I assume this is a bathroom fan, and you’re in the UK?

    If you have the possibility to do it according to your last scheme, that would be the safest, the price you pay is to have to install another switch and have one in the wall that’s not good for anything else going forward. Maybe you could find a separate in-line fuse, if that’s something that you guys have.

    Best,

    Georg

  • Shelly1 to control FAN on/off

    Good question. I’m assuming (fully knowing that guessing isn’t good enough at 230V) the supply terminals are pre fuse and the load terminals are post fuse, so that would mean only the physical switch function would be fused from now on, and the Shelly and the fan would only be protected by the fuse for that room (assuming there is one - and see my above comment).

    Best

    Georg