Beiträge von Budda

Zitat

Unfortunately, two dimmers won’t work together at one light, whatever dimmer type it would be. Thus, your plan will not work. You’ll have to replace the rotary dimmer with a simple two way switch to implement dimming with Shelly. Or - much better - replace the rotary dimmer AND the two way switch with push buttons. This allows user-friendly dimming with up and down buttons.

There is only 1 rotary dimmer involved, the other switch is a simple on/off in the 2-way setup.

Replacing one rotary dimmer with some push buttons on the wall face plate of 4 switches isn't ideal - creating more work and cost for a retro fit.

So just to clarify, the Dimmer2 SW input doesn't support variable rotary dimmer switches at all?

Zitat

If you still want to use a rotary switch, you could also use a special 0-10V rotary switch and a Shelly 0-10V dimmer.

https://www.shelly.com/en-gb/products…s-0-10-v-dimmer

Are these devices (looking at the product images) aimed at controlling low-voltage 12v LED lighting? I've got 240V GU10 dimmable downlights already installed so maybe not compatible with this device?

I've not seen any posts mentioning the Dimmer2 working with rotary switches. Is it compatible?

My existing wall switches are Push On/Off with Rotary Dimming modules from https://www.varilight.co.uk/dimmers/v-pro.php - and I'm not having much look with them working so far. What button type configuration needs to be set in the Shelly app?

The existing setup is 2 way wiring with a dimmer on one wall and a straightforward on/off push button on the other wall.

Well, these images are worrying to see! I'm just adding a Dimmer 2 to my kitchen ceiling downlights... 🫣

I'm attempting to establish if it's possible to replace an entire Lutron lighting system with Shelly devices to control many, many bulbs, an RGB fibre optic ceiling, window and door blinds, and use the existing iPad mini integrated into the wall to show a Shelly dashboard and use the numerous light up wall switch clusters to control Shelly lighting scenes.

Reasons for considering ditching the Lutron system:

1. Requires a call out from a technician for any configuration changes + special software
2. Current config is corrupt so can't do any changes (i'm told) and needs to be reprogrammed but nobody has a backup(!)
3. All halogen based system, transformers and drivers are not LED friendly, and there's a lot, I'm told they all need to be replaced to use LED power.
4. No way to integrate with Alexa for voice control in a wet environment (swimming pool)

Searching the forum I don't see any posts mentioning "Lutron" so imagine it's an unusual project to attempt. I'll update here as I go if it's of interest for anybody else.

I'd like to monitor the temperature of an indoor swimming pool water - much in the same way the Shelly H&T device does using a battery.

The UNI seems like the way to go as it doesn't require mains voltage to operate.

Has anybody managed this before - and does the UNI + water temperature probe work in the same way as the H&T by only connecting to Shelly Cloud and saving new temperature value when a change is detected over X degrees? Or will the battery life of a UNI be poor as always powered on and connected to the cloud?

Which garage door motors did you make smart?

I have 3 garages to upgrade at some point and wanted to add exactly the same magnetic detection using the add-on board.

Has this been resolved in any more recent firmware updates since the summer?

Hello 👋

I'm slowly working my way through an old house and making it smart using (mostly) Shelly devices. Plenty to do and keep me busy so hopefully I'll find some answers amongst everybody here!

Glad I don't need to create a Facebook account to post on the Shelly Group there.

- Mike