Ok, no worries, I was concerned I might have missed something.
I do have a feature request open for this and most of the other Dimmer 2 features that are missing from RGBW2.
Maybe there is an RGBW Plus coming with enough flash space to fix all these things.
I am looking to purchase this 2 of these fans for both my remote kitchen exhaust and also my Makeup air, and would like to control it via Shelly devices.
But looking at the manual it seems that PWM (0-10v) is available for the speed control.
Could I use a Shelly RGBW2 as a fully variable control for this via PWM? From my checking of the manuals this seems to be pretty straight forward..., I assume I could even skip the "ground" as the fan is already powered and this is just providing the input
Bottom left diagram is what I am thinking.
I tested this for a project a year or two ago, you will need to add a protection diode for the Shelly, protect against back emf from the motor.
You should also be aware that the shelly switches the ground not the supply so you have to change wiring to accommodate this.
It does work, speed control is fully variable and very granular.
There is another issue but it might not be a problem for your application, the PWM is set at 960Hz and this means the motor is very noisy with this frequency, like a loudspeaker, especially at slow speeds.
The chip used in the RGBW2 can't run faster PWM, I have a feature request lodged for when/if they release an RGBW Plus based on the ESP32 that they have a motor mode where PWM is set to 32kHz which EPS32 can do.
Unfortunately there is no such function with Shelly Software. Only minimum brightness can be set, but not max.
How can this be set in the RGBW2? I would like to have a minimum brightness, it's too easy to dim lights below their minimum and then it's very confusing to dim lights up again.
I can't find a minimum setting anywhere in color or white mode with fw 1.12
All 12v & 24v LEDs should be almost infinitely dimmable, mine work really well, especially after fw 1.11.4
The limitations with dimming LED lamps are due to the power supplies built into mains powered LED lamps.
Definitely PWM.
Since 1.11.4 they fixed the issue I reported, the transition time is ignored if you switch on then off quickly, before the transition is finished and also if you get transition to more than 2250 it is ignored when the brightness is under 20% when the transition starts. there was also a bright flash at the end of the fade down!
Now my cinema lights fade nice and slowly, no flashes, works well, at last.
I've been testing an RGBW2 as a motor controller and it sounds like the PWM is around 1Khz, I think 960Hz is common for the chip driving the RGBW2.
Here's hoping for a Shelly Plus RGBW with ESP32, a bit more current and an option for a higher PWM frequency.
I just wired three of these without neutrals last weekend.
The three live connections on the shelly are connected together internally so you don't need to worry about which is which for the shelly. They are going through the PCB though so I wouldn't use the shelly as a junction block!
All of my switches had passthrough live to the next light so I kept those live's together at the switch, using the switch as a junction block. Then just a live jumper wire to the shelly and the switched live to SW1 and the shelly output to the light fitting.
The fig 2 diagram is correct but you don't have to wire a separate live for the switch back to the shelly, as long as there's at least one live going to the shelly it will work.
Answering my own question in case someone else looks for the info:
The em has separate setting for each clamp so it's possible to set one to 50A and one to 120A completely independent.
I installed it earlier today and found that the 50A clamp wasn't physically big enough to fit around the 100A input cable so that's another factor, I hadn't though of. I was able to fit it around the cable from the utility before it goes in to the meter, not sure why that's smaller but it fits exactly and will be measuring the same thing.
The second clamp on the feeds to the upstairs ring main works perfectly, both on the same phase as pointed out by SparkyMaster. That has two cables wired to the breaker, feed and return for the ring main I expect. Current reads correctly with both through the clamp.
About to cook sunday dinner so will see how much juice that uses 
So I tried Color mode, better but now some weirdness which is most likely a failure to understand on my part.
In Color mode I can switch on/off and it does all channels together, excellent. I even get night mode which 4 channel mode doesn't have.
http://192.168.214.219/color/0?turn=off
I can manually set the colour picker to white, for some reason there isn't a white button on the web interface!
http://192.168.214.219/color/0?red=25…ue=255&gain=100
Now trying to change the brightness is a bit odd, seems I should use gain but it seems to work sometimes and not others, probably a shelly integration with Openhab problem
Nope, same situation, no error but only channel 0 turns off, thanks but that's not the answer.
I have too much load to wire all the strips on one channel but I wonder if I can fudge it in colour mode, maybe if I wire the three strips to RGB I can still fade them etc.
Would be better to just switch them on and off, fade them up and down as a group, without any fudging.
Does anyone know what happens with the button input? Does that switch them all off together? If so Can I send a button off command, maybe.
There has to be a way to do this surely.
So I've run out of actions to turn off all the lights in my living room so I wonder if it's possible to turn off multiple channels of an RGBW2 in white mode in one command?
Looking at the docs and guides I tried this:
http://192.168.111.222/white/0?turn=o…=off&2?turn=off
It's accepted but only turns off the first channel, any ideas? I don't really want to get my openhab automation system involved and I don't use the Shelly Cloud either, looking to do this as directly as possible.
I'm using button two on a Dimmer 2 to turn off the dimmer (so I waste one action because the button has to be detatched, why exactly?) then a tasmota ceiling fan, three channels of the RGBW2 and a standard lamp controlled by dimmer 2's. It all fits if I can turn off the RGBW2 in one command.
Thanks, I'll give that a try with a spare shelly 2.5 I have not installed yet, sounds promising.
I had a similar experience, one Shelly Dimmer 2 running 3x60w halogen, kept shutting down if anywhere near full load. I replaced the bulbs with 43w ones and it's happy now, thankfully I didn't want full brightness anyway.
The second one was in a standard lamp with a 200w lamp, that one went bang within a hour, well more phut than bang. Replaced under warranty and I put 150w lamps in that and another identical standard lamp, which is fine but not really what it claims.
Definitely 200W resistive load is optimistic at best, it does say 150VA (only 150W if the power factor is perfect, lot less in practice) for ferromagnetic which the LED power supply will be.
I had one do that, it was on fw 1.8.0 and also wouldn't/ couldn't connect to my wifi. Once I updated 1.8.2 it was fine, it may have been scrambled in several ways as I had to recover it with a USB flasher.
Are you on FW 1.8.0?
I have several different types of LED's but all 12v white two wires so that's simple.
I think provided the LEDs are all 12v or all 24v and the + positive side is common like the wiring diagram they should be fine, oh and no more than 45w per channel, 90w for 24v.
Do you have details of one you would like to use?
I'm wondering if I can use a Shelly Pro (or maybe Pro Plus) for power management in my home office network. One of the things I need to be able to do is remotely power cycle the Internet router, not often needed but very important when it is needed. The critical feature is to switch off a channel and then have it automatically switch back on again after a delay usually 1 minute but probably even a shorter delay would be ok.
You can't turn it off, then back on again because the Internet connection will be gone and wifi too!
Is there a way to do this in the Shelly Pro? Maybe it could be done with the Shelly Pro Plus scripting?
I think Allterco would sell a lot of these in the network market, the usual equipment for this is a great deal more expensive.
Thanks for the comments, I ordered two 50A clamps in the end and they arrived yesterday, I decided I could always order a 120A one later if it was required. The UK store lists the clamps separately but is out of stock of the 120's.
I'm measuring only one phase just two different loads within a few inches of each other, I'll risk it with the loading, pretty certain it won't ever get anywhere near 50A.
I was more interested to know the setup and limitations of the Shelly EM
Hopefully get it installed this weekend.
Is it possible to have an EM with one 120A clamp and one 50A? I'd like to monitor the whole house and separately the feed to my home office.
The main breaker is 100A so I guess I need a 120A for the main feed, although I can't imagine ever drawing that much! It's a 4 bedroom house but 100A! I can easily get to the MCB output that feeds the office and one other room but that's close enough, that's a 32A ring main breaker so 50A is plenty.
Maybe I should risk it and get 2x 50A, especially as the 120's seem to be out of stock right now.
Does anyone have experience of how much is really drawn by a house with only two people in it? We have gas heating but an electric oven, I have a lot of power hungry network equipment in the office, which is why I want to measure the usage.
Even 50A seems a lot, I am an Electronics Engineer so I do know what 50A means. 
Ok, they said these features are coming to the RGBW. They say there is some optimisation needed in the current firmware to make space in the RGBW.
Good news.
An update, I was able to recover one of the dimmers with a usb ttl adaptor and the recovery v1.8 image. I found thought that v1.8 wasn't able to connect to my wifi but I was able to update to v1.8.2 in AP mode and now that dimmer seems fine.
The other crashes my USB adaptor when it's connected so I think that one has really failed.
