Working now, thank you for helping me !
Last question, is it OK to have the plus H&T with Batteries inserted and connected via the USB C port to a charger ?
Working now, thank you for helping me !
Last question, is it OK to have the plus H&T with Batteries inserted and connected via the USB C port to a charger ?
Thank you for the quick answer, I changed this & will check it is working
I have 2 x TRV + 1 x plus H&T
printscreen of settings attached, measured temperature on the TRV is not updated by the plus H&T
Not sure where I went wrong
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Same here, I was trying this out as I ordered a Plus H&T replacing the original H&T, I did not get it working till now
I am running this setup already for quite a time on a similar net (3 x 230 V no N) and it is measuring correctly.
Te only disadvantage is that you are getting the phase currents only from 2 of the 3 phases. the sum of the power is
I recently changed to an electronic "smart" power meter, forced on me by the power company. Funny enough it is acting on the exact same way as the shelly 3EM. Seems both are using the same connection principle
I am using the 3EM now for some weeks wired as described in the post.
It is working perfectly, I double checked the measurements with the measurements of the "official" power-meter and they match.
Thanks to the app & home assistant values are more easy to check than checking the readouts from the meter.
Only pity is that the power split between phases is not shown.
Just for the record, after a rocky start, the DW 2 sensor started functioning reliably.
By rebooting a couple times the device (getting the batteries out & in), I managed to connect to 1) the network & 2) save it in a room.
Possible the device was going to sleep mode between faster than I could select the correct room.
I knew I had to ask before buying & trying...
Do you have electrical consumers connected between live terminal(s) and PE? I suppose you don’t…
No users between L & PE as I have no 130 V consumers
But give it a try! Shelly 3EM should work with this constraints. Except you have a RCD working in your premises: The RCD will cut off.
Good point, I do not know what the internal wiring in the shelly is, if the leakage between phase and N (PE) would be more than 300 mA RCD will cut off.
Seems 2 wattmeter methode is the only solution.
Thanks for the hint!
same situation here, 3 x 220 V no N
On the other hand, I have a (local) PE
Measurement between each line & PE is 130 ... 140 V
Why not connecting the PE to the N input of the shelly 3 EM, the shelly will measure the power with correct network data, only based on 3 x 140 V so multiply the power output with sqrt(3)
Same issue here, Just connected a shelly 1 without issues, (several other shelly 1 & RGBW2 in operation without issues only Door/window 2 not possible to connect.
app is reporting device is connected, but does not offer the possibility to add the device to a room / connect to cloud.
If I connect to the device with the AP, I can change the wifi credentials, I see the device connecting to my router but than it disappears.
Lost already 8 % of battery power over different attempts