Beiträge von torusJKL

I'm answering myself.

I just saw in another post that it is possible to prefix the username and password.

http://user:passwort@192.168.xxx.xxx ...

I have activated Restrict the web interface of the Shelly device with "Username" and "Password" on the Shelly.
Now I can't trigger any API actions on that Shelly anymore (I'm using a Shelly i3 to do that).

Is there a way to have both?
Password protection and API calls?

On a browser I can enter the password and than it works again but I haven't seen an option to enter an access password for the Shelly i3 actions.

Zitat

Maybe I'm realizing that circuit incorrectly, but surely, if one switch is on, then the other switch can't switch off the lights? In that circuit the lights are only off if both switches are in the off position.

I'm using momentary push buttons with this wiring.

Zitat

torusJKL this is possible. how should i connect them? can you show a scheme please?

Did you manage with the schemas provided by the others?

This is how I connected them in my home.
(in your case you need the bypass because you don't have N connected to the dimmer2)
2 way Shelly dimmer2.png

The issue seems to be that you use two 1-way switches.

Once SW1 is on than no matter what you do with SW2 it will always provide power to the SW1 input on the Shelly.

You need to either use 2-way switches or push buttons.
With 2 way switches you would need 2 cables between the two switches so this might not be possible in your home.

Zitat

Hi,

i have used this diagram with standard switches and choosing edge type button. The problem is that i can operate the switch only from one location at the time: if I switch on from one location i need to switch of from the same location since from the other one is not working) torusJKL can you help me?

thank you so much

Can you sketch a schema how you connected everything?
Handwritten is fine too.

Zitat

I don't have 3 wires between the switches but i can use the live wire from another switch in one location.

Does Shelly dimmer 2 need the L wire to go to the switches and than to SW1, or it is just a simple live wire?

The switches are advertised as no-neutral and they use the same approach as Shelly Dimmer 2.

I think you should only use the live wire from another switch if it is on the same fuse.

You can either connect the switch to L from the Shelly and than back to SW1 or you can split L and connect one cable to the Shelly and one directly to the switch.

If your switch doesn't have a lamp than it doesn't need neutral.
This is normaly the case.
But maybe your touch switches are different.

I have stopped to use their app.

It was too slow and often showed devices offline.

I guess their strengh is in hardware not mobile software

This app looks promising:
ShellyPilot App (Android)

Btw. some advanced options/configurations are only available over the web interface.

Danke für den Hinweis.

Ja, ich meinte natürlich die Dose.

Usually it is better to start a new thread if you have a different situation.

Do you use the Bypass?
If you don't have a Bypass the Dimmer2 needs at least 10W power consumption to work.

Das kommt auf die Verdrahtung an.

In meinem Haus geht die Phase immer von der Dose Buchse in der Decke zum Schalter und dann wieder zurück zur Dose Buchse und damit zur Lampe.

Das gibt mir die Möglichkeit die Phase für den Shelly unter der Lampe abzugreifen und die Phase welche vom Schalter zurück kommt und normalerweise die Lampe mit Strom versorgt beim SW Eingang des Shelly zu verbinden.

In my experience the Shelly app does not always work.

I recommend you connect manually to the Shelly AP with your Android phone and use a regular browser to open http://192.168.33.1 .

Configure your Wifi access point and password over the homepage and the Shelly should afterwards be available in the app (you might need to refresh the app).

Habe es bei meinem 1L versucht.

Den Taster an Sx angeschlossen funktioniert.
Den Taster an derselben Phase angeschlossen funktioniert nicht.

Mir war nicht bewusst das dies eine Limitierung des 1L ist.
Ich benutze oft die Phase und habe mich beim 1L per Zufall für Sx entschieden.

In addition to what Harrygrey wrote.
If you assign a static IP manually make sure that it is outside of the DHCP range.
You migh thave to limit the range in your router first.

Hilft der "Night Mode" vielleicht?

Wenn du diesen für 00:00 - 23:59 auf 80% setzt sollte der Verbrauch nie darüber gehen.

Damit müsste er zumindest mit dem Taster nicht über 80% gehen.
Ob das auch mit der Alexa funktioniert weiss ich leider nicht.

Könnte es sein, dass dein Stromadapter nicht genug Spannung liefert?
z.B. 12V Adapter mit 24V LED Streifen?

Thanks, it works.

Ich habe eine Ähnliche Situation.

Ist dieses Diagramm korrekt?

There might be an even easier way.

Like with the previous solution use regular 1 way switches at both locations.

Use 1 wire between the locations to forward L from location 1 to location 2.

And use the other wire as the output from the switch in location 1 and connect it together with the output of the switch in location 2 to the SW1 input of the Dimmer 2 that is also located at location 2.

See attached diagram.

Edit: See the next post for an easier way than described in this post.

If you change the 2 way switches to regular 1 way than you can use the existing two wires between them to send L from the Switch 1 location to the Switch 2 location.

And the L' going from the Switch 2 location to the Switch 1 location.

This would give you the possibility to add a Dimmer 2 at the Switch 2 location.

No the part I don't know if it is possible is a adding a second device because they would both use the same bypass.

If it is possible than you can add a 1L at the Switch 1 location as you now have both L and L' at that location too.

The 1L would get the switch input and would execute an API HTTP request (configurable under Actions) to the Dimmer 2 and hence controlling the light.