You should be able to achieve it with a script. Have a look at examples here:
You will most likely need to pull additional cables from the switch box to the roller shutter box. It might be easier to enlarge the switch box e.g. by drilling it deeper. But you would need to provide more details about what kind of switch box it is.
Hello,
My shelly uni, with latest firmware (20220209-095044/v1.11.8-g8c7bb8d), has stopped responding to input 1 (just a switch). So it has lost the information if the input was closed or opened. I could still control relays without a problem. Device restart has fixed it. I'm powering it with 24AC as it is used to control rain sensor input of my irrigation system.
Is this a known issue?
Hi,
I have 2 Shelly Plus 2PM devices controlling covers. They are calibrated and work ok until a power is lost after which they lose the cover position and have to be fully opened or fully closed before they again are aware of the cover position. Firmware 0.10.3 Both have eco mode disabled as with eco mode they would sometimes lose position even without power outage.
I have also a Shelly 2.5 which also controls another cover and it never loses cover position neither on power loss.
Thanks!
Btw, I have found an official wiring diagram for our use case, it is in line with what you have:
[Blockierte Grafik: https://scontent-frx5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12160…d8d&oe=5FEFBDF8]
Published in this post on facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ShellyI…06851806080828/
Maybe you can try with my first version of the connection diagram? So the signal to SW1&2 comes from L not from N?
Ah, ok I get it. I have redrawn it to group into the switch boxes and now I see it 
Thanks! So it works for you, right?
@Johnydemarco
After analysing the situation the only possible solution that comes to my mind is as per below diagram:
the assumption here is though that the SW1 and SW2 inputs can accept the hot input (from L line). Not sure if Shelly 1L supports that. In here you can keep the existing 2-way switches but only 1 output is connected (to the SW1 and SW2 accordingly). What do you think?
According to this "new" wiring diagram (figure 2) you would need 4 cables where the Switch A is located but there are only 3 wires (as per figure 1). Simply there is no direct cable from Switch A to the lamp. Do I read it right?
