Update:
It was not working correctly, possible the Shelly is not working like it should. After a while the Slave light has blinked and then the Master light has been switched off.
I removed the S2.5 and installed S1PM to Slave light, later I will install another S1 under the switch and make it the normal way.
The only problem will be always the WiFi signal strenght.
Thanks,
Michal
Hello Wolfgang,
yes, you get it right.
Thanks for very good explanation. I made everytning you wrote step by step. And... it is working 
What I don't like is the big lag between - I think it is because of the rule is run through some Allterco servers and flies all over the internet.
1st solution: I have OpenHAB running, I will try to do it locally later, but the biggest problem will be probably polling the Shelly every X seconds - this will define the lag time probably.
2nd solution: will be probably to flash alternatife FW and create the rule inside of the Shelly?
3rd solution: Install one Shelly under the switch and create the rule through OpenHAB to switch on the "always on - red" line.
Thanks again!
Michal
Hello,
On my terrace I have 2 kind of lights. Switched with switch and always on, which are supposed to use the sensor. However, I want just to switch all of them with the switch.
Is it possible to solve it just with one Shelly just in the Circuit breaker box? Is there a way to detect current flow on brown wire ant then send it also to red wire?
Schema in my circuit breaker box:
Thanks,
Michal
Liebe @ASi-Master, Ich danke Dir! Ich glaube dass ich kann mit die Shelly1L leben, wahrscheinlich spaeter ich kann ein paar Draten einbauen.
My Dear miso k,
Without a second wire between inside_box(bottom) and outside_box(bottom) there is no solution as desired.
With a second wire you just have to duplicate the solution from inside/outside_box(top) to inside/outside_box(bottom). One input at the second Shelly 1L will remain as spare.
With pushbuttons outside and smart bulbs I could imagine a solution without leading new wire(s). But Bulbs have to be in your WLAN its range.
Important note: Never use two different phases when wiring to one Shelly (you have mentioned "...different stairway circruit..."). You'll destroy it.
On the other hand: As Automatise4life allready wrote, please try to give us all information once. Constant changes waste our time.
Alle diese Stromschaelter sind an die gleiche Phase, aber fuer die Zukunft - gut zu wissen!
Michal,
Slowakei
I dont want to do it, but if there will be no other option, I will try. As I wrote, Humide, Lack of space...
I have spare Shelly1 v1 ...
Yes the drawing is better, but please answer all questions. Do you need another (so the 4th) switch at the 2nd shelly?
No, I dont need another switch. There is already one, but this is different stairway circuit, which i solved myself with Shelly 1 - there was enough cables..
Push switches - I prefer to not to change the system - it must be unvisible for users - my wife 
The second task again - that one was, ok, more than terrible hopefully this one is more readable.
Automatise4life ’s wiring scheme is correct, your conclusion isn’t. Maybe following sketch is more easy to understand under your circumstances:
This is what I wrote.
So here you go:
Two boxes outside next to each other (box 2 + box 4)
Two boxes inside next to each other (box 1 + box 3)
Lets say that the Box 1 + Box 2 situation is solved with Shelly 1L - I love your solution.
What if I want to mount another Shelly to box 4 (there is space) which will be connected to switch 3?
The problem is, I have only one cable to be interrupted - phase. Plus there is Earth and Ground too, of course.
I want still to be able to use switch 3, which is now IP44 Stairway switch (could be changed to normal one IP44 maybe?)
Thanks guys!
So actually with Shelly 1L it is exactly this:
Do you understand this or do you need another drawing?
Wow! pretty easy So the Shelly is on the box with the left switch.
Grey - New cable to SW1
Brown - L phase, already in the box
SW2 cable - one of two original cables which connected to outputs of the switches
O cable - one of two original cables which was connected to outputs of the switches: from output of right switch to Input of left switch + new cable to O of Shelly + connection to the bulb (which was originally on the input of the switch)
I though that this situation is impossible.
Do you want me to make it even a bit more complicated?
Thanks for answers,
It looks like it is much more complicated.
I dont have spare wire there. The only possibility is to disconnect ground or neutral, mark with tape and label and use it to wire missing cables to shelly. But I though disconnecting those two wires is not a good idea, even if I measured the rest earth cables and it was still working (it is connected somewhere else to the ground).
Wet conditions - bad wording, humide conditions - it is IP44 switch on the "fasade". I did not found any Shelly humidity specs, so for me outdoor instalation is a no-go.
So is it there a good solution with Shelly 1L if I don't want to change the Switch to Pushbutton?
OK,
I have two Shellys 2.5 now on my desk.
so the situation:
Strongly preferred for Shelly instalation is the Box 2, because it has better WiFi signal, is inside of the house, without wetness, and with more space.
Dammed, too late for a joke...
miso k : Are you really familiar with electric installation?
To be honest - I am not electrician, however, I have made some low-voltage electrical projects already.
I have changed SW and O now:
From logic point of view:
L phase and N should power Shelly all the time
If you can have phase on SW1 or SW2, shelly can react with switching on O1 or O2.
But probably Shelly2.5 can't detect O1 or O2 state changes on second switch.
Right?
I was trying to do it, but the problem is, that I dont have all the cables for shelly in one box:
Red "circle" = one box
Green circle = second box - outside on the house - fasade - too less space, no phase wire, wet.
Yellow XX is the cable which is only in the second box, so I can't connect it to Shelly without leading those 2 new wires through my house. Those two XX cables are connected now.
Hello,
Is my schematics OK?
Sorry for ugly drawing
Which settings should I use?
I suppose Edge switch and Restore previous state after power outage?
Thanks,
Michal
I have the same problem. Too less cables - The black cable from the bulb to the box is missing. If I will do it like @martijndierckx,
The problem is, I dont have all the cables in one box.
Box 1 - left one:
Wiring between switches (black)
Phase (brown)
Neutral (blue)
NO Bulb cable!
Box2:
Grey cable - easy to add, but shelly needs to be in this box
Neutral (blue)
Bulb cable (black)
NO L Phase wiring!
One cable is always missing! I would save a loooot of time adding the cable from one box to the other one.
EDIT: What about to connect O2 and O1? Is it possible?
