Beiträge von tfi_friday

Zitat

After you do some research, you will find:

COLOR mode

curl --request GET 'http://192.168.33.1/settings/?mode=color'

and

WHITE mode

curl --request GET 'http://192.168.33.1/settings/?mode=white'

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Thanks for that as I hit a similar problem to the OP.

That being said according to the API notes it should work:

https://shelly-api-docs.shelly.cloud/#shelly-bulb-rgbw-light-0

There it says it is possible to set the parameter 'mode' to either 'color' or 'white' using that API.

http://<IP_ADDRESS>/light/0?mode=white

So it should in theory work...

What I've observed is that which ever mode the bulb is in, using with that URI it will always switch to color mode.

i.e

If the bulb in color mode and http://<IP_ADDRESS>/light/0?mode=white is called then it stays in color mode.

If the bulb in white mode and http://<IP_ADDRESS>/light/0?mode=white is called then it switches to color mode.

At least http://<IP_ADDRESS>/settings/?mode=white works like it should,

I just tried today with my first Motion sensor and everything worked as expected.

I'm running 20210226-072307/v1.1.0 and Home assistant core 2021.2.3

When installing it I did press the button to wake the device up before inclusion.

Also I beleive Home Assistant doesn't support "Restricted Login" so make sure that's disabled.

After that the only thing I needed to configure in the Shelly Motion, after it was included in Home assistant, was to Enable CoIoT and entre the IP address of my Home Assistant with port 5683.

Zitat

Did you manage with the schemas provided by the others?

This is how I connected them in my home.
(in your case you need the bypass because you don't have N connected to the dimmer2)
2 way Shelly dimmer2.png

torusJKL Maybe I'm realizing that circuit incorrectly, but surely, if one switch is on, then the other switch can't switch off the lights? In that circuit the lights are only off if both switches are in the off position.

EDIT: Ahh sorry, I see the problem is that the L and O are not in the same location so without installing a third wire netween the switches it's the best solution.

Unless you change the one-way switches to momentary push buttons (usually just to install a small spring) and configure the DImmer 2 as "One button mode" then you get full control from both switches.

My problem was related to the attached led lamps. After upgrade the dimmer 2 wasn’t reachable, no led red lamp in the rear. I couldn’t even hard reset when connected to the 220v supply.

I managed to hard reset when I powered up the dimmer 2 with my usb-ttl connection and could see the dimmer was on 1.9.6.

From there I could downgrade to 1.9.4.

After that I connected the dimmer to the 220v again and also switched led lamps and recalibrated. Then I managed to upgrade successfully to 1.9.6.

@Olsche new bulbs today, and trailing edge calibration and a successful upgrade to 1.9.6

Zitat

Nice that it works but it is not safe for the device. Calibration of leading edge & LED bulbs can destroy the device with the old FW 1.9.4.

I recommend: Do not use different lamps with different brands. Mixing is critical

The Dimmer2 will thank you.

SebMai  @Olsche

Ok some good news I'm back on 1.9.4 again.

Although wasnt so simple to get there

When I connected my USB-TTL to the Dimmer and I noticed that the red light came on again, so I held the reset button down and I was able to connect to the local AP again.

From there I could see the firmware was reported as 1.9.6. I tried a factory reset and tried to connect to the 230v lamp circuit again, but it was still in the same state. No red lamp, wouldn't connect to the Wifi network and the lights stuck in the on position.

So I disconnected it again, and connected it to the 3.3v supply where I could at least connect to it via the local AP again.Once again performed a factory rest and configured my wifi again and was able to connect to my wifi network successfully.

From there could downgrade to 1.9.4 again using the OTA command:

http://192.168.xxx.yyy/ota?url=http:/…HDM-2_build.zip

After that I connected to the mains supply again and the red light was blinking and could connect successfully to me wifi network.

I am suspecting it could be the bulb combination as they are two different brands (3 bulbs total 21W). And to get the calibration to work I had to select leading edge.

Anyway, I'm back on 1.9.4 and things are working again.

Thanks SebMai

@Olsche Are the pin outs on the Dimmer 2 like this? I’ve removed the dimmer from the wall socket and thinking about trying and see if I can connect with the usb-ttl adapter?

It’s a Dimmer 2 installed with a no neutral. Single switch configured as an edge switch.

Load was about 21w total (3 x e27 dimmable led lamps)

Got a notification when I logged in to the switch via the app (local connection on the same network) that there was a new update. I was on 1.9.4 before update.

Selected to install the update, lights were on when the upgrade was performed.

That was all I did.

I waited 30 minutes then went to log in to the device and it wasn’t reachable.

Tried the light switch and got no response from the lights.

Tried searching for the local Shelly WiFi connection thinking it might have been reset.

I removed the light switch to check the red led lamp on the device and it wasn’t on or blinking.

After about another 15 min I powered off the circuit breaker and no change. Lights came on again and switch not responsive. No red led lamp on the device.

Tried a hard reset by holding in the reset button for >10secs, again no change.

1.9.6 doesn’t appear to be much better, as it just bricked one of my Dimmer 2 devices. I won’t be trying it on any of the others.

Looks like it’s bricked

Can’t even reset using the reset button.

No red light or anything...

1.9.5 was bad, feels like 1.9.6 is worse

Hi anyone else have issues upgrading to 1.9.6?

I just tried on one of my Dimmer 2 switches and it’s non responsive after. No WiFi connection, not even the local Shelly WiFi connection

The lights are stuck on and can’t switch off.

Powering off at the circuit breaker doesn’t help either.

I was able to do that, but not with regular dimmers. I used 2-way push button switches (regular 2 way but with a spring installed)

So I click the switch to turn on the lamps, then hold the switch to adjust the brightness. Holding the switch will turn up the brightness, release and hold again to reduce the brightness. Once I have the right level then I release the switch. Another short click will switch off the lamps.

I guess it would be possible to have a double two way switch to independently control up and down using both S1 and S2. But you would need 3 wires between the switches rather than 2.

viish More like this:

No that won't work, I believe with the Shelly Dimmer 2 you can't have toggle switches on S1 and S2.

S2 I believe is used for dimming in combination with S1. (S1 dim up, S2 dim down)

A simple on off can only be connected to S1 if I recll correctly.

Zitat

Would this setup work with the shelly dimmer 2?

[Blockierte Grafik: https://www.domo-blog.fr/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/fibaro-fgd212-dimmer-va-vient-interrupteur.jpg]

viish I havent tried the neutral solution myself, but I guess it should look like this:

viish It's a very different circuit if you are running neutral.

Instead of the Live in to the 2-way switch at Location 2 I believe it should be the neutral.

Ignore that I just looked at the manual, looks like it can be either neutral or live. Are you sure the wiring is correct?

Alternatively if you have 1-way push buttons then this setup should work without neutral. You need to configure the buttons as "One button mode"

I went with the no-neutral and two way switch and works great. Thankfully I had a live wire in both locations which simplified matters alot. Otherwise I would use the push button in both locations.

Here's my two-way switch wiring, with button type "Toggle Switch one button" configured in the Dimmer.