No polarity on snubber. No matter witch wire where, just hook it up in parallel to the load.
thanks for the reply
No polarity on snubber. No matter witch wire where, just hook it up in parallel to the load.
thanks for the reply
Hi,
i have this issue with the inductor stowe.
the reason as far as i am aware is that the induction current stays in the circuit and when starting again it runs the excess and shelly detects it.
i got https://shop.shelly.cloud/rc-snubber-wif…home-automation and it should reslove this and similar issues
i will test it and report back...
i do have a question before installation/ as i am not an electrician/
does this RC snubber has a + and a - and does it matter which wire goes in front of the consumer/device/
and if it does, how do i find out which is which, because it is not labled on the snubber
Hi,
Idea is that I would like to put i3 on a old PARADOX security system that basically has 3 sensors that are directly connected to the main system with cable.
i guess the sensor sends the signal to the box via the cable.
i would basically connect the 3 lines to 3 output cables from the sensors and see if the i3 would detect the change and report so i could expand the security system form just a local alarm to alert to be able to receive the notifications via home assistant.
could this work??
any way i will try it at some point and report the results, but u guess it all boils down to the type of the signal the sensors send and the level of the current
Hi, i guess add me to the list
i have about 20 1PM shelly2.5, and shelly1, temperature sensor and sonoff's, tuyas and xiaomi.
all word fine, but 1 shelly1PM constantly disconects and one 2.5 doesnt connect to the network at all, but it's AP works fine, just adding it to the network does not complete. it shows that the newtork setup completes but i cant see it on the network anymore, restarting it just makes me go in loops.
Can anyone else confirm that the beta fw resolves the connectivity issue, or does custom fw make any difference