Right, sorry I see now. So its how I had it wired originally just without the bypass.
But then that takes me back to my original question, when I switch the shelly the WiFi bulb loses WiFi connectivity and that's the whole point of having a WiFi bulb.
Is my scenario just not going to work?
So i have wired it that way but the bulb is only getting 1.8 volts across the terminals. The same is true if i test between L and O on the Shelly
If i check the voltage between L and N on the Shelly, it shows 240 volts.
Does that indicate a failure on the Shelly? See the attached image
Hi all,
I have seen plenty of posts and images of setups with no neutral and bypass. But I haven't seen a definitive wiring diagram for my scenario where I do have live and neutral - with the option of the bypass.
So my setup is as follows:
Home Assistant controlling multiple LED WIFI bulbs
Wanting to incorporate the physical switches to assist family members so I bought Shelly 1L's. Problem is when power is cut, so is the bulbs connection to WIFI. The bulbs are all 6W and the largest configuration is 4 (24W total). I thought this would solve the issue of minimum 20W but it doesn't. Also some will only be a configuration of 2 bulbs.
I have connected the bulbs and bypass using the neutral method (in a test scenario) and seems to be OK. I have also done the setup of live and neutral (without bypass). My question is seeing as though I have both live and neutral coming down to the switch, what is the best method for me to wire it? Does the bypass only work over neutral to both bulb terminals (so not in the typical live\neutral wiring)? Or can it work in the "typical" scenario of a bulb that has both live and neutral wired in?
Essentially the wires coming down to the switch are connected to the bulbs (live & neutral) - do I just "repurpose" the live now to be "neutral"?
Thanks in advance for any assistance
David
