Beiträge von tomasr

There was a misunderstanding here, maybe I described the pictures incorrectly.

"Box B" is in the bedroom, where Shelly is also installed and works as it should. The image is the original connection (before Shelly) and the marked wago contains a permanent phase.

"Box A" is in the hallway on another circuit, where I'm trying unsuccessfully to install Shelly. The picture shows the original connection and the marked wago does not contain a permanent phase (phase is on IN of switch). I don't know exactly what kind of wire it is when it's just finished. Apparently I mistakenly thought it led to light, but since there is only one, it's weird.

So both pictures are a place for Shelly and in both cases it's a 3-way connection.

I thought you called the box what was under the switch. "This box" is the one in which I perform the installation. There are 2 wago. In one there is a brown wire (without phase), which does not connect to the switch at all. In the case of Shelly, it connects to O. The second wago connects the neutral wires (there are not a green-yellow wago). The second brown, which has a permanent phase, is connected to the IN at the switch. In the case of Shelly, the phase splits into I and L and does not go to the switch at all.

In second box is not permanent phase at all. This box has permanent phase and wire to lights.

I measured voltage on contacts, how did you want. Was not too difficult.

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I will try to learn with a multimeter and supply specific values.

One conductor in a wago is not a permanent phase. The permanent phase is the wire in the IN switch.

In function connection is it opposite. In wago is permanent phase and in IN switch is not

The voltage in the bedroom is completely different (I wrote the values in the original diagram in parentheses). I am also sending the original connection in the bedroom, where there were 3 brown wires 1 phase and two connected in a wago. There are only 2 brown, 1 phases and one in the wago in the non-functional corridor (marked in red in the picture). It doesn't limit the function of the switches, but it probably affects Shelly. The question is, why is there one missing and whether it can be solved without it?

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Origin connection 3-way which works with shelly

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Origin connection 3-way which does not work with shelly

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OK means there is voltage and X is not. I can't measure a specific voltage yet. I'm going to reopen the 3-way switch in the bedroom to see if I really have it the same and if there is also voltage in the contacts in the individual states.

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I can't draw the whole apartment, it's 9 rooms. I already have four rooms functional. In this thread I solve a corridor where there are 4x4W led lights that are controlled by 3-way switches (two switches). I want it in other rooms, where the lights are controlled both by switches and through wifi. In other rooms it works well, both simple switches and 3-way, unfortunately each switch is a little different, so it can't just be copied.

I am sending a simple drawing of the wiring in the room and the voltage states on the contacts.P_20211107_103101_1.jpg

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This is probably the problem, in the second room with 3-way there are 2 wires in that wago, but here the other wire is missing. I don't know what it means there, because there is no need for switches.

Second room 3-way

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There is nothing broken, everything works independently.

I connected it exactly according to the instructions and according to it like the other shelly in the apartment. I involved them all.

There is nothing much to spoil. The live phase bifurcated between L and I (shelly), the neutral conductor is not different in the box. The SW goes to the IN switch. The only thing that is a little special is the wire that goes to the O (shelly), which was separate in the wago and was not connected to anything (top left on the picture). But there is no other in the box.

I am sending, how it was connected originally without Shelly.

Discuss room 3-way

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Zitat

Between terminals SW and L of the Shelly 1 should be a voltage of approx. 3V DC if the switch is open. Switch closed: Voltage between L and SW should be zero! Please confirm this!

On this connection is SW with zero voltage when switch is off and on. On another connection is with switch on some voltage on SW, exactly how did you say. So in this case is problem because of zero voltage when switch is on. But why could be zero voltage there?

Unfortunately, I don't have another switch to perform the test, but I think I understand and will try in a week.

I don't quite understand what you're saying about the switches being broken. They work, we commonly use lighting in the hallway.

I don't think there are another 3-way switch on that circuit. There are 2 more in the apartment and they are already connected to the shelly and functional. The only thing that could be involved there is a motion detector and night lights, but these are not controllable with switches.

Repair. Shelly logs even when the switch is turned on / off and probably clicks, it is just not heard because the switch clicks too. So what is key is that when the switch is on, the voltage is not on the SW contact.

I see. I have multimeter, but I cannot use it at this while.

Good point. When switched on in the application, the relay clicks and makes an entry in the log. The lights only flash when the switch is on. When turned off in the application, they do not stop blinking. They stop and turn off at the power switch so switch does not controll shelly at all. I do not get it. I've connected two rooms with 3-way and I can't solve this even though I do it basically the same way.

Could you advice me how to measure it?

I understand you but lights start flicker when click on switch (position on), but relay does not click. On SW is no voltage.

Now I tried it on bathrow where are three same lights and bulbs do not flicker.

Yes, it is logical. At official website it is describe strangely. So it works with switch, but with WiFi just when switch is on.

Is it possible to produce a sensor that could be plugged directly into a socket? Currently, I assume to attach next to the socket and connect a small cable with the adapter in the socket. Is there a cable with the sensor and would such a permanent power supply work? The socket is classically at the bottom, can the sensor be 30 cm high or is a height recommended?

Here https://shelly.cloud/products/shell…omation-device/ is describe that you can manage bulb with switch on lamp. How can works manage by application when switch is off and to bulb does not lead electricity?

What do you mean, if I'm sure the lights aren't flickering without a shelly? I have been living in that apartment for 5 years, I would have noticed if the lights were flickering :).

Yes, there is not much difference, I just describe what the electrician told me when he did the electrical installation 5 years ago.

There is no corrosion, it is a new copper line.

There must be some reason why the shelly don't click. There is low electricity on some contacts, the neutral conductor leads differently than it should or something I am not able to judge as a non-electrician. Do you have an idea?

Shelly with 20W Led works without a problem, it does not flicker, so the module is OK.

With 4W lights the relay does not click, the lights still flicker.

The question on the load was that the same effect occurs when the neutral conductor does not go into the module. The resistance must be increased by the bypass. Some motion sensors do the same thing because they are unable to turn on low watt lights.