Beiträge von mikeytt

On Firmware version 1.24. I have six device buttons assigned on the main screen but I want to change one of them. How do I go about this? There is no option in the EDIT PAGE section as there was previously to FM1.24. There appears only to be the option to + on the main screen and once added o way to change or remove?

Today everything appears to have gone back to normal

Since upgrading to iOS 15.4.1 I've been having issues with the App.

The main issue is that it will often freeze when moving to the group screen and it becomes impossible to click on anything or go back to previous screen. This has also been reported by other users in the Facebook group in the last 2 days.

Additionally the background images used for the groups are different to the the images that are shown when using 15.4 or accessing through the browser.

Also the Add Alarm and Add Thermostat options are greyed out in the settings section.

None of these issues exist on my other phone which is still on 15.4.

Photo attached showing difference...

Have tried deleting and reinstalling app, logging out etc, but the same issues persist.

Thank you for confirming it is possible! I was able to enter the value of 0.2 using the web browser interface.

Previously I had been trying to do it via the iOS app and that does not give you the option to enter a decimal point (see screenshot), so I had assumed it therefore had a minimum of 1.

I am looking at controlling the opening and closing of a car gate (NICE ROBUS) via my door intercom (BTICINO/LEGRAND) via a Shelly 1 Plus.

The BTICINO intercom has a relay for the purpose of opening things. I've connected this to the Shelly so that when the BTICINO intercom button is pressed, the BTICINO relay activates which in turns activates the Shelly relay. This all works.

However the ROBUS input for open/close commands requires a pulse signal to work correctly - the relay needs to activate for about 0.2 seconds only. Any more and the step-by-step gate opening does not work correctly.

So this is where I am stuck as the BTICINO relay has a minimum activation time of 1 second (which is why i cannot connect the BTICINO relay directly to the ROBUS) so this in turn activates the Shelly relay for 1 second. What I need to do is get the shelly relay to activate for just 0.2 seconds.

I thought it might be done via the Auto Off Timer option, but that only seems to be a minimum of 1 second as well (via the mobile app anyway).

If the timer option is not suitable, I was wondering if DETACHED mode might offer a solution by activating the relay via a script. Not scripted any shelly's before so unsure if it's possible to set an activation time of 0.2 seconds via script or not?

Thank you for any help in advance

I can confirm that this works.

Fantastic! Now must wait for break in the rain again to test! Thank you so much for your help.

A fortunate break in the rain so I've been able to get the readings.

It appears that it is the negative terminal of the OpenGateSignal that is being switched.

Reading between (-) OGS and (+) Constant is 0v when gate is closed and 24v when gate is open.

The other option, (+) OGS and (-) Constant reads 24v in both states.

The motor is an ROBUS1000 and the specific controller is the NICE RBA3-C.

Unfortunately the manual and documentation does not specify if switching is via positive or negative so I'll need to measure the voltage as you have suggested, but that will have to wait until it stops raining (raining for the next two days non-stop!!). I'll report back when I get the measurements.

I was wondering if the following is possible with a Shelly Plus 1.

I have a Robus car gate opener. One feature of the Robus is that it has a GateOpenSignal circuit (NO) which sends a 24VDC current while the gate is opening - this is usually used for turning on a flashing light to signal the gate is opening. Once the gate has opened it then shuts off the circuit.

I was hoping that it would be possible to use a Shelly 1 to send a notification when the gate opens, in other words when there is a current from the GateOpen output. The Shelly doesn’t need to do anything else.

What I am unsure of is if this is possible with a Shelly Plus 1, and if so the correct way to wire it up (see attachment with no connections!!), or if this requires a Shelly EM

The Robus board does also have a constant 24VDC supply output for attaching additional devices.

Any help greatly appreciated

Thank you for pointing that out. I think I was a bit thrown because for the "Live" wire they have used a blue colour wire (which of course usually signifies Neutral), so you are correct that as it is the common live wire for the circuits it should go to the L terminals. Many thanks for all you help. Next step to order the 1L's and test the installation!

I'm not back at the house until next week but I'll have a proper check then regards the wattage. As a rough idea:

1) First circuit of lights is 10x 100W incandescent

2) Second circuit of 10 lights is 5x100W incandescent and 5x small infloor halogen (don't know wattage through probably in the region of 40w).

3) Circuit of 20 lights - not sure of wattage, they're dual 20cm fluorescent tubes running off 12v drivers - at least 12 years old.

All the above to be repalced with LED. Given that the wattage appears to be higher then the 20w min require for bypass I wondered if the following diagram (based on my original) would be correct for the Shelly 1L installation?

Mix of Incandescent/Halogen/flourescent but all being replaced with LED. 1 switch has 20 lights (that's the one with four fuses in the photo), the other two switches have 10 each. I'm hoping that means I won't have to use a bypass on any of the them?

Each set of lights is on their own fuse and separate RCD. Does that mean the only option is the 1L ?

Zitat

a three phase or a one phase mains network

I am not sure if it is three or one phase - I have a feeling three as the previous owner used to run some heavy duty machinery in the garage (welding etc). The house also has three separate RCD boxes - one for garage and outdoors, one for house, one for pool. Attached is photo of the RCD box in the garage where these three switches run to. 8 RCDs (plus two more out of picture).

I have three wall switches inside the house which control lights in the garden. They are installed next to each other and wired as in the attached diagram - one "hot?" wire shared between each of the three switches, and then individual wires running from each switch to the lights.

Am I correct that these are wired with no neutral and in that case I need to use a Shelly 1L on each switch (I have a couple of Shelly Plus 1's available)

I do have available a neutral line from a wall plug which runs through the same wall box so I wondered if that could be used if necessary.

Thank you.