No polarity on snubber. No matter witch wire where, just hook it up in parallel to the load.
Beiträge von marvmkd
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I want to transfer all my Shelly devices from the actual Account to a new one
Have you find a proper way to transfer devices to new account and fully remove from existing.
Is deleting from app sufficient. Or disable cloud, than delete, .... Is there any tried or documented method. -
Zitat von mezaw
It worked for an hour or so, then the shelly cut out with an over current protection notification.
Ok, good job for Shelly.
I disabled the overcurrent protection on the device in the shelly app.
Why would you do that?
I checked back an hour later and the tub is off and the shelly unresponsive.
Yap, it burned out.
The tub has a 3kw heater, and the pump appears to draw around 350w according to the shelly.
That is already in shelly max load limit. 3350W in steady run, and probably much more when heater runs, and pump starts (it is inductive load, so inrush current is several times higher).
What's going on?
The Shelly is burned out most probably.
I wonder if it's just not up to the job. It would be a shame as I'm using (well, intended to) a temp sensor on the 1PM to measure the tub temp.
It is good, but for that kind of load, you should have used an contactor.
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Shelly 1L in order to operate without Neutral, is leaking small amount of current constantly. So there will in fact be enough to trigger SW inputs.
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but it's only been in service for 5 month
That is irrelevant in case of warranty claim.
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We have an debate on Shelly FB page. As I am not in/from UK, there is one question going on. Is above wiring of Shelly in any ways contravenes with UK ring main wiring regulations? Some guys says that Shelly cannot be seen as just a Spur, atc ... especially in regards to BS7671 wiring regs, ang BS1363 socket and plugs regs.
I think they are all OK, but I wont to hear an expert opinion. -
Hello marvmkd,
why do you think that you need to supply the Neutral with wiring dimensioned for 40A? The Neutral connector at the Shelly is only for the internal supply of the Shelly itself. If it really happens that the Shelly itself has an internal shortcut then the N-wire (no matter if 1.5mm² or 2.5mm²) is not the problem. In that case the internal fuse resistor of the Shelly will burn off. The wiring will not be in any risk.
Because, there is nowhere stated that it is internally fused, and because it is max 40A as a device, according to regulations here it should have neutral for 40A. I have seen the teardown, and know that it is as you said, and also it is logically that way, but regulators and insurance inspectors don't bother that much. They want the same size for L's and N's on single device (what shelly represents when viewing from the input side).
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Dear (first sorry for english, I used google translate to look for answer).
This is what I exactly wonder about for 4Pro and also Pro 4PM.
As Hummingbird77 asked several times. How do you deal with small and only 1 (one) neutral connector. If you in theory feed 40A to input then under all codes you should also feed our on N 40A. What in case Shelly some how blows/shorts internally and you will have possible 40A on 2.5mm2 Neutral. -
Something like this, they come in different dimensions.
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