Is it enough to just connect 15V AC N to UNI N ? Smth like this ?
Untitled-2022-11-14-0746-0.png
diagram 1
OR do I need to replace the power supply of UNI to 15V AC ?
Untitled-2022-11-14-0746.png
diagram 2
Beiträge von erolguzoglu
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I prepared the circuit by looking at this diagram.
[Blockierte Grafik: https://kb.shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/63865086/image-20220912-080848.png?inst-v=152bbbc5-f693-4ee1-87a0-a0084ad9d0d3]The diagram shows that UNI IN 1 and UNI IN 2 pins can accept 12-24V AC (My doorbell and door lock transformer 15V AC ). So I thought it going to work. (Actually it works but I don't is it safe)
Actually, in my first diagram #1, I planned to supply UNI with the same 15V transformer. When you recommend supplying UNI with a 12V DC transformer (#4), I also add a 12 VDC transformer to the circuit. (#5)
I can't change the 15V AC transformer because it belongs to the apartment building. Lots of doorbell chimes are connected to it. -
I drew it in april
Do you mean smth like this ? I tried that on breadboard and it works.
Screen Shot 2022-04-04 at 00.43.54.png
Oh, what I run already! So I verified my solution
Thank you thgoebel.
Which way do you recommend? -
ah okay. Im asking vcc, gnd and in pins because i am using relay with expansion board. Same as the photo.
[Blockierte Grafik: https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Aw3GXWmgSKJjSsplq6yICpXab/1-channel-relay-module-5V-or-12v-or-24v-low-level-trigger-relay-expansion-board-jqc.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp] -
This is the diagram I tried to explicate in words:
65319837-5E68-478A-95C2-DCEB7314D38A.jpeg
You’ll need no modification if your breadboard arrangement is working!
Thanks for the clarification! It feels more reliable
I ordered 1n4007 diode and relays because I want to try this on a breadboard. But I have one more question
I couldn't understand relay pinout connections and diode connections from the diagram above.
Do I have to connect OUT-1 out to relay GND pin ?
Do I have to connect 12V minus out to relay VCC pin ?
What about relay IN pin and diode ?
Sorry if these are dumb questions. -
I solve the problem with Homekit accessory group feature. So I create a office light group with 4 light. Now I can control 4 light at the same time with same brightness
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The connection diagram would be correct if the 4 buttons were supplied with voltage via the power pack.
In the settings there is the item Button Type:
There you have to switch to Momentary for button switches.
hmm. To be more clear I need to make 4 buttons to one. Like the physical switch shown on the diagram.
I want to open and control the brightness of the 4 led strips at the same time via one button, not four.
When I need to open the room lights, I am going to the Google Home app, and tap 4 light bulbs one by one. I don't like that. -
I wonder what Alterco robotics and Shelly users think about Matter protocol ?
Is wifi over matter support coming? If yes, is there any planned release date? What about the existing hardware?
I am surprised there is no topic about the Matter in the forum. I think it could be a board for Matter topics. -
Hi everyone,
I am living in a led strip installed house. The led strip is divided into 4 pieces (per wall) in every room to get more brightness from LEDs.
I am using rgbw2 for 6 months to control the led strips. I connected the wires as shown in the diagram below. Every wall is connected to different pin independently.
So in the end there is one little problem. I got 4 light bulb buttons for every room.
I know there is a grouping feature in the Shelly app but I prefer to use Google Assistant and planning to move Homekit.
Is this wiring method correct? How can I achieve the one-button experience?[Blockierte Grafik: https://shelly.cloud/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/DC_4xWhite_led_strip_shelly.png?_gl=1*c7ou9f*_ga*MjA4ODc3NzA3Ny4xNjY3ODUyOTg4*_ga_RG1ZWH9CCQ*MTY2ODM5ODk3Ny4xMC4xLjE2Njg0MDE0MjUuMC4wLjA.]
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Usually, a conventional door lock is activated with a current of 1 A or slightly more. Hence, you’ll need a relay with an AC coil rated for 15V. It is very likely that the voltage of your 15V transformer is breaking down during the activation of the door lock. Which will cause the Shelly UNI to loose its WLAN connection…
Keeping this in mind, I would recommend another solution: Supply the Shelly UNI with a small power supply (perhaps a plug-in type) with an output of 12V DC and a maximum current of 700mA. More current rating is harmless. Connect plus 12V DC to Shelly pin1 and minus 12DC to pin2. Grab a small relay with a 12V DC coil and connect the coil to minus 12V DC, the other coil wire to one of the OUT2 wires. The other OUT2 wire is tied to plus 12V DC. The relay contact is wired to door lock and 15V AC transformer. At last, get a simple diode from your dealer and connect it in parallel to the relay coil: The cathode of the diode (marked with a ring) to the pin of the coil with plus 12V DC, the Anode to the other pin of the coil.
You’ll get a much more reliable circuit!
Do you mean smth like this ? I tried that on breadboard and it works.
Screen Shot 2022-04-04 at 00.43.54.png -
Thanks! So, is there any way to do with UNI or should I use additional shelly 1 with 220V PS?
Both outputs of Shelly UNI are equipped with an Optocoupler (TLP172GM):
Thus, connecting an optocoupler with another seems not very consistent. Except the additional optocoupler would enhance the quite poor voltage (36Vpp) and current rating (100mA) of the devices in the Shelly UNI…
And, by the way: The above posted sketch will not work, because the outputs of the Shelly UNI are „dry“ circuits.
Nevertheless: Welcome to the forum!
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Screen Shot 2022-03-28 at 19.13.46.png
In my apartment, doorbell and door lock connected same 220V AC to 15V AC transformer. Couple of weeks ago I connected Shelly UNI to doorbell circuit to get notification when button press.
Now I try to figure out how can I use Shelly UNI Output pins like door bell switch. Can I use the optocoupler (came in the Shelly UNI box) for this purpose ? Or any good idea ?