Ok, having posted that, I realised it had factory reset itself.
For reasons unknown it is now working as I wanted it to two weeks ago.
Why does using Pin 6 (sensor ground) instead of 2 (neutral) work better?
What does the diode on VCC/Live do?
If I want to mute the doorbell (now that I have a fancy relay), will replacing the neutral (pin2) on the Uni for ground (pin 6) on the third diagram above be sufficient to get it working?
Thanks for the link.
I've set it up as the diagram (diodes pointing at the uni on VCC and input 1, and using 6 (sensor ground) instead of 2 (neutral)). This lets the button press be detected but the bell is super weak sounding and the UNI goes offline if the button is held for too long.
When I tried with 2 as well as 6, the UNI has ended up in a reboot cycle that disconnecting 2 hasn't resolved.
I have been failing to get anywhere with this for two weeks, so some help would be great.
I have a boring Friedland type 4 doorbell. 12V AC coming from the consumer board, loops out through a standard button press (no light) and back to the solenoid that goes ding dong.
First I tried wiring my Uni up as the first diagram. No button press gets detected at all.'But the doorbell rings like normal.
Then I tried disconnecting my switch from the bell and the button press gets detected fine (But the door bell isn't ringing, so that won't work) (not pictured)
Then I tried adding a resistor and diode as I've seen recommended and again, no button press is detected.
Finally, I got a relay off the internet and wired that up. Now the button press is independent and can be detected. The shelly can turn on and off the relay (which goes buzzzzzzzz) BUT the doorbell rings permanently
I'm at a loss on what to try next. I have a single power source at the bell. I don't require the ability to mute the bell but I do need a working doorbell AND to detect button presses (so I can notify the household on HA)
The problem is on the HA side, should be fixed in the October update.
My 20yo home has a landing light, with a switch downstairs, and a switch upstairs. There are no neutrals at any of the switches. The live is fed from the downstairs lighting circuit into the downstairs lightswitch, and the neutral is provided at the light fitting from the upstairs lighting circuit. (A borrowed or stolen neutral configuration, it is common in older houses in Ireland and the UK).
A few weeks ago, I installed a 1L at the downstairs switched live, and used a high load halogen bulb to save me adding a bypass to the light.
Then, this week, after receiving a pile of new bypasses, I installed a bypass as I may use an LED bulb in the near future.
After adding the bypass, when the landing light was on, the Shelly dimmer 2 in the living room (downstairs) and the manual dimmer switch in the kitchen (downstairs) started to flicker. Turning off the landing light stabilised the dimmers.
There's a shelly dimmer 2 upstairs also, in the ensuite. With the landing light on it was flashing really badly. With the landing light off (and the bypass installed), it overheated and crashed at 30% brightness. It had to be set to 100% brightness all night until I could remove the bypass in the landing.
After removing the bypass, the downstairs lights all behaved but the upstairs dimmer2 still behaved erratically. Today I removed the 1L also and restored the original wiring configuration and the ensuite dimmer 2 is behaving as expected.
- How much current leakage should I expect from a Shelly 1L installed across a borrowed neutral?
- How much should I expect with the bypass in place?
- Is there any solutions to automating the landing light that don't require knocking holes in the walls to run new cables?
I have a Shelly Dimmer 2 in the en suite bathroom.
I want it to dim to 30% between 00.30 and 09.00 and be 100% all other times.
During the day it behaves as expected.
At night, when I turn on the light, it goes to 100%. If I turn it off and on within 1 minute, it goes to 30% as expected.
I have tried to configure this behaviour with nightmode in the shelly app and with home assistant.
On home assistant I have tried looking for device on and tried looking for channel 1, and the behaviour is not correct.
I have tried the shelly in detached and toggle switch mode, behaviour is not correct.
I have tried different ways of configuring the automation (separate day and night automations, if switch in the actions), still no correct behaviour.
The firmware is up to date.
The light is a dimmable LED with a bypass.
The switch is a plain 1 way toggle switch.
I have tried factory reset a couple of times, it has been callibrated again each time.
Is the shelly defective? Is there something else I can try??
