Didn't make any changes. The magnetic contact notifies the shelly by the 'SW'. This is triggered by this option -> Set the “Input State” option in the “Application Settings” if i'm right.
I'm using a simple Shelly 1. No need for a Shelly Plus for this job.
How dit you wire the relay 7042V000? By using the relay you don't need a magnetic contact?
Hello all,
I got it all wired up and it works like a charm!
This is how its wired at the moment:
[Blockierte Grafik: https://smarthome-forum.eu/index.php?attachment/32591-pasted-from-clipboard-png/]
I use Home Assistant to controll it.
To make sure shelly A and shelly B can't be "On" at the same time i made a dropdown menu. So i can only select 3 options:
1) Low ventilation (Shelly A and B "Off")
2) Medium ventilation (Shelly B "Off", Shelly A "On")
3) High ventilation (Shelly A "Off", Shelly B "On")
=> in your automation make sure it puts the Shelly A or B to "Off" before putting another to "On"
As an extra touch i made a condition that only Shelly A can go to "on" when Shelly B is "off" and visa versa.
I bought a CO2 (PPM) sensor for the living room and a humidity sensor for the bathroom. It is fully automated now by linking the sensors to the dropdown and selecting the ventilation needed automatically.
Special thanks to thgoebel
Hello all,
It works great, here is how i finally wired it:
The settings inside the shelly are (inside the webinterface or your APP if using a phone):
- Set the “Button Type” to “Detached Switch”
- Set the “Power On Default Mode” to “Off”
- Set the “Timer Auto Off” to “0,3 sec”
- Set the “Input State” option in the “Application Settings”
Once everything is set up, you can use the Shelly Cloud, to control your garage door. The state of the Magnetic Door Sensor will illuminate the power button icon when the door is open, giving you the confidence that the door is either open or closed.
I also got it working inside Home Assistant. If anyone can't get it to work correctly you can allways PM me or reply in the forum.
1 last question to be sure
I just got the shelly’s to do the job. But before i wire i wana make sure:
About post 14
When shelly a and b are ‘off’ it means L1,L2 and L3 are “open” right? Or is L1 allways closed?
When shelly a is on => L1 and L2 are closed
When shelly b is on => L1 and L3 are closed
Thanks so much for your help!
For the ppl just reading now. Ill update if i tested it all. The thing im gone use is in post #14 + a smart socket plug
A Shelly Plug S or Plug (depends on the wattage of the VASCO unit) is a good solution to switch the whole thing off!
But the remaining issue is the inhibit of switching both L2 ans L3 to L1! This could be done via software: An action in each of the Shelly 1 could switch the other off, if its own output ii switched on. Please have a look in the forum‘s lexicon section for a description of DDD commands.
Yea i was also thinking of it this way. Im going to make "helper switches" in HomeAssistant so when i switch Shelly A on, it automaticaly switches off Shelly B and visa versa. And use these "Fake switches" instead of the "Live switches" from the Shelly itself.
No, I think the unit has to be completely separated from mains network for a shut-down. Please have a look at my sketch in post # 13.
Ah now i see. You mean completely put it out of power. The "Extra" shelly 1 is like pulling the plug.
Actualy post #13 is a combination of #14 + a shelly smartplug (or shelly 1 inside the wall socket)
I don't know, its not discribed in the manual
Addendum:
If it’s desired and allowed, the whole VASCO unit could be switched on/off by a third Shelly 1:
smarthome-forum.eu/attachment/32590/
(Switching inputs SW were omitted intentionally)
But you should check in prior if the unit is built for frequent power cycles!
Not sure if its possible cuz when L1, L2, L3 are 'open' --> lowest power is used. Don't think its possible to shut it down by this. Or am I wrong?
So this is the way it should be:
Programming:
1) Shelly A + B off --> Low
2) Shelly A on & Shelly B off --> Middle
3) Shelly A off & Shelly B on --> High
Is there a way i can make sure that shelly A and B CANT be on at the same time?
At the moment the ventilation is allways on.
Mostly at Lowest power, when we shower it goes to high for 15-20 minutes
When there is alot of ppl at home we set it to middle
Here is the picture without the diagram
Its in dutch. Saying:
L1 & L3 closed - Highest
L1 & L2 closed - Middle
L1 open - Lowest
L1 connected to C
L2 connected to 1
L3 connected to 2
The made example is a NIKO type 170-45900
Perfect, so if I wire it like this.
I can’t harm the ventilation system?
On your diagram it looks so simple 
The “N” and the “L” of the shelly can be the 230V from the ventilation unit right?
So actualy my last diagram is correct?
(Orange and Green wires are actualy the same)
I don't realy get what u mean, i'm very new to this
You mean this?
Is this a dry contact?
Or do i have to remove the "I" from the first shelly?
The manual doens't say anything about dry or live contacts...
True, i totaly missed that... My bad.
Actualy with the 3x Shelly 1 u mean wire it like this?
I don't want to add a DIN rail to the place thats why i try option (A)
Hello all,
I want to wire up my Ventilation system. In the manual i find a way to connect a Niko type 170-45900 switch.
The screenshot of the manual is in dutch. It is saying:
L1 & L3 closed - Highest
L1 & L2 closed - Middle
L1 open - Lowest
Is it right if i wire it up like this?
So when
01 & 02 are off -> Lowest power
01 on & 02 off --> Middle power
01 off & 02 on --> Highest power
Thanks
Ok, thank you both so much in advance!
I’m going to order everything and if i get it to work ill post an new picture here for other users with the same garage door
Thanks for the answer.
Is the better option I instantly buy a Shelly plus 1? (I need to buy a new shelly anyways)
Can i use a magnet contact on the SW when i use a Shelly plus 1 on 230V?
I just checked the voltage.
the GND and +24V (as in your 2nd picture) gives a value of 22 on the meter... Is this ok?
Ok, thanks.
The magnet would be wired like this right?
(In example [9] would give permanent 24V)
Or should i connect everything like this?
With DIP switch 4 'ON'
