And working !!!
Without WS for now, but ok from website !!!
Beiträge von bemo47
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connection of second in progress
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No, even separated on L and L1, still same
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Please separate the two red wires: one should be attached to terminal L, the other to terminal L1 (L and L1 are connected internally)!
i can do it but on the diagram they are not separated
i tested my light with the old switch, its working perfect
i detect power on L but never on O
but both web button and WS button works together, if i press on WS once it toggle the blue button in the website, and off if i toggle again
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As I mentioned before: button type: momentary. Power on: Off (“last state” is not compatible with “momentary”).
thats what i set no but still no light ON, checking my light
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here the wiring on my Shelly 1PM
Blue = N
Red = L wired with the Red from WS
Black = second wire from WS in SW
Orange = back to the light
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I didn't use any wago, all wires are directly wired in the 1PM connectors
I will check my light also, if no troubles there
but in meantime, what should i set for power on default and button type ?
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ok, now it is connected to my wifi
i was able to do it by resetting it, connecting to its wifi, then 192.168.33.1, but i had laso to understand that the wifi settings mentionned in the fields ssid and pwd had to be rewritten because they didn't had any mreaning even if the looks correct.
so by retyping them it connected
then i did a firmware upgrade
now i see it in one group, ok
but the WS doenst work, nor the switch itself, it never switch my light on, at the start right after wiring it, i was able to get light by pressing the WS, but light was not staying ON, each press = ON, when released = OFF
so i guess my wiring is correct
but now, nothing... i tried different settings for power on default, button type etc... nothing...
i rebooted it.... nothing...
Any help or suggestions will be welcomed
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so i succeeded to add a wire to bring N to the Shelly 1PM
WS is connected to 1PM
I now discover that the WS is one time switch, 1 press = ON, 1 release = OFF, so the light doesn't stay ON, i guess i have to describe some scenario in order to have 1 press = ON, next press = OFF etc...
But i cannot add this 1PM in the Shelly app and any group.
I can find its Wifi, i follow the process but when i click done to add it, i have a red message saying
other detail, to reset it the doc says ON/OFF on the Shelly, then in the next 1 minute press 5 time on the reset button ===> NOT WORKING AT ALL
but if i press 30sec on the reste button, then it reboot and reste and generate again its wifi !!!!!
edit :
now i can add it, at least i can go the end of the process with a message saying added ok, but then i cannot find it anywhere in the Shelly app, and it disappear from the discovered devices, so i need to reset it and restart, but same each time.
not in the only group i have, not the IP on my LAN with a scanner, nowhere....
i don't understand...
really a nightmare !
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oookkkk......... thanks for the prompt answer...
So i will order two 1L, shame because i own 2 1PM since months and can't use up to now
And my lights are more than 20W... but... as i will change them for led's lamps i will come below 20w i guess... so i should order also the bypass..
edit : or i will try to insert a 3rd wire up to the lamp in order to bring the neutral... maybe..
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Hi,
I want to switch to separate lights with only 1 switch.
Currently i have 1 switch + 1 light and in another place 1 switch + 1 light.
My idea is to replace the current switch in the 1st place with 1 Shelly Wall Switch + 1PM to manage the linked light, and replace the other switch with a 1PM.
The 1 st 1PM when activated by the Wall Switch, first light ON, will command the second switch to power on the second light.
My question is that in the 1st current wall switch i have 2 wires, its the arrival of the phase L on the switch and the other side going to the light.
On the below diagram they are the 1 and 2
But i don't have the N labelled as 3 here below....
So how to connect the Shelly and the WS in that case ?
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Did you read the explanation for the flyback diode in Wikipedia? What exactly is not understood?
The diode shall be connected to A1 and A2 in reverse direction. When you connect it in forward direction, the UNI will be destroyed most likely.
The relay connection of 11, 12, 14 is correct.
fyi, i have connected all elements and it works perfectly !
now i have to build the door and a box to protect the components, but its on a good track !
tahnks a lot for your valuable help.
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sorry but i will have another question regarding relays.
i plan to use these relays https://www.gotronic.fr/art-relais-sen…tm#complte_desc
their cabling scheme is :
i think i will use the cabling scheme on top left ?
A1 & A2 being the command, A1 to the Shelly, A2 to the diode and the -
12 & 14 power + and power -
11 to the motor
Is that ok ?
But the diode is a bit strange for me, i understand that it will prevent from inserting voltage in the command circuit from the power circuit ?
But, without the diode we have no connection between the poser circuit and the command circuit, so why adding this diode ?
Or its to prevent the voltage to go back to the shelly maybe ?
Anyway, i will install as u recommend, but was just to try to understand a bit more
edit : oups, u gave me a way to search explanations for that, sorry...
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ok, so thanks a lot for the help.
Now i can think to the rest of the system and start ordering éléments which are not very expensive anyway.
Thanks
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ok got it, so 1st implementation of stop switches on the 100mA wire should be fine.
but something i don't get is the OUT1 and OUT2. In the Shelly drawing they say that one wire is N/GND and the other is AC 24V, but in your schema u connect a V+ on one wire and the other goes to the entry of the relay, with the other side of the relay linked to the V-.
in fact the OUT connectors are only switches that allow a V+ to go through and not a V+ and V- connections ?
Edit : so that would be a definitive one ?
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Schéma porte v1.jpgok, i see, obviously i am not skilled enough to imagine the need of diodes there... but i can follow your advice, think i got it, and thks also for the manual operation part.
just to check, i was modifying my schema after your 1st remark, by connecting the V+ directly to the motor entry instead of the V+ 100mA coming from the Shelly, i was ok there, but i also moved the stop switches from the command V+ link to the regular V+ power link. Don't know if it could be better, or not really useful.
edit : still have to add the diode here and the manual op switches....
and i noticed also that u invert the + and - connections ! ok noted
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Wiring of supply voltage V+ and V- needs to be corrected. The UNI does not provide voltage at its outputs, there are just semiconductor switches between the 2 wires for each output.
I will modify the drawing when I am sitting at my PC.
oh thanks a lot for your advice
if needed i add here the schema in a powerpoint ===>>> ahh no, the forum don't support other than jpg... sorry...
edit : and also i saw that we could add a button on entry IN1 or IN2 like this below.
Should i understand that i could have buttons to open or close manually the door ?
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Hi, any advice on my above schema ?
Just to confirm if it will work fine or not or if i need to modify / add / change some things....
Thanks for your attention,
Bernard
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good night bemo47
i also want to do the same and my watch is the same as yours.
Did you let the watch stay the same and turn on the shelly or remove the watch?
Do you have photos of the final result?
thanks
oh sorry, i didn't saw ur question.
I removed totally the old watch or clock, and just replace it by the shelly as shown on my last schema and everithing works perfectly up to now.
Even the shelly doesn't have permanent wifi connection but as the schedule is stored in its memory, it works even wihout internet connection.
Also the button on top to select manual or auto or stopped for the pump is working same as before.
So this schema was perfect.