Beiträge von the-ninth

Problem is already solved - by mistake I put the parameters in the URL instead of the body. After changing that it works as expected!

Hi,

I am trying to switch on a relay via the cloud API, based on this documentation. For testing purposes I use Postman. For device id I use the alphanumeric id that the app gives me, for authentication key, the cloud authentication key also from the app. When sending the request, I get an error "Could not control this relay channel!". I tried 0 for channel, as per the documentation, but also tried 1 or omitting the channel, all lead to the same error.

Screenshot - 26_04_2024 , 17_21_11_ver001.png

Any idea of what I could be doing wrong?

Hi horkatz, thanks for your input. My box is waterproof and I think large enough to avoid overheating. Not sure about it being too large for cold temperatures, but since the Plus 1 is specified to work down to -20 degree Celsius I am not worried about that too much. My worry was mainly the humidity.

The behavior I am seeing is a bit weird. Sometimes when it is cold and wet, I cannot reach the Shelly anymore via the network, ping or any other IP connections fail. Interestingly, then if I open the entrance gets via their "normal" remote, also the Shelly goes online again. The Shelly power supply comes via the circuit board of the entrance gates, so it may also be actually a fault of that circuit board not supplying the power.

Do you maybe have any advice on how to best debug this? Are there any logs that would show me whether the device was not reachable due to wireless networking issues or due to power loss? As far as I can see there is no local debug logs, I need to have some kind of host that processes and saves the log? What could I typically use for that?

Here is a photo of my setup:

VIVAH and Shelly Plus 1.JPG

Hi,

I am using a Shelly Plus 1 to control the entrance doors for our car port and am facing some reliability issues. Sometimes I cannot establish connectivity, especially when it is cold and wet, and yesterday the device went into a full factory reset, I had to discover it again and reconfigure all the settings.

When checking the specifications I was surprised to read that it is only cleared for humidity between 30 and 70 %. The enclosure I have it in is water-proof but not air-tight, so humidity would still creep in. And humidity around here can easily reach 80-90 %, so way beyond the specified 70 %.

How are your experiences with the Shelly Plus 1 in such an environment? Is there any similar device from Shelly (or other manufacturers) that would be better suited for outdoor conditions?

Regards, Robert

Made some progress - the status I get via:

http://<shelly-ip>/rpc/Shelly.GetStatus

told me the uptime, which is clearly longer than the recent connectivity issues. So power does not seem to be the issue, but the network connection is unstable.

However there is some correlation with device activity. The Shelly is controlling our entrance gates. When it looses connectivity and then I trigger the entrance gates via our traditional radio controls then the connectivity of the Shelly comes back on. So somehow that activity triggers something in the Shelly that enables it to reconnect.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing such behavior?

Good evening,

I am having two issues with my Shelly Plus 1 and am looking for debug options.

First, sometimes the device is not reachable via the wireless network - is there a way I can enable logs to tell me if the device was powered off or if there were network connectivity issues?

Second, I have issues with delayed status updates in openHAB - is there a way I can enable logs to tell me when the input status was changed and when those changes were sent via the interface to openHAB?

I have not found a solution yet. What could work is to use openHAB to integrate the device with Apple HomeKit and use that on the phone instead of the Shelly widget. But I have not gotten around to trying this yet ...

I have just done something similar with a Shelly Plus 1, in my case it was reading the input from a entrance gate indicator light and detect whether it is on, off or flashing. In my case I have an openHAB automation server in place and implemented it there via scripting. You can find details about this project here:

https://www.the-ninth.com/blog/ditec-vivah-car-gates-shelly-plus-1-openhab

If you do not have an automation server, you still might be able to do it via Shelly scripting. I have no experience with that and am not sure if it has the necessary features. You'd write a script that reacts to changes in the signal (on/off) and sets a timer to 2 seconds. If the script is executed again, it cancels and resets the timer. Only if the timer runs through the 2 seconds without cancellation you know that the on/off signal has stopped and can execute whatever action you like.

Here is the documentation for Shelly scripting. On a quick glance it has everything you need, I am just not sure how you can save the reference to the timer from one script execution to the next.

Hi,

I would like to make our door bell "smart" using a Shelly device. I am an IT guy and my knowledge of electrical installations and their working is unfortunately very limited. Main goal is to be able to detect if the bell is ringing, not to be able to ring the bell from the Shelly. The challenge is that the power supply, the switch and the bell are in three different locations, and I only have a power supply for the Shelly device where the power supply is located. The bell only has the switched connection and no permanent power supply, and the switch only has one wire, the one that is switched:

Door Bell Wiring.png

Is there any way I can detect at the location of the power supply if the circuit is closed? Maybe using a Shelly Uni? The circuit for the door bell is 12v, so it could be used to power a Uni or a Plus 1. At the location of the power supply there is also a 220v supply that could be used, though I'd prefer to stay in the "safe" 12v circuit.

Hi,

I am using a Shelly Plus 1 for controlling our entrance gates. They just need a short on signal for activating, so in the app I set the off timer to 1 second. When I press the button, it sends the signal to the relay and then turns off again. That works great.

However, when placing the device on the Shelly iOS widget for relays, this does not work, the blue circle that shows that the switch is on remains on.

Would be great if that could be fixed in a future version.

And if already at it, it would be great as well if the input state display (the green/red light) could be seen on the widget as well. In my case that one is fed by the switching input of the Plus 1, which is connected to a sensor showing whether the gates are open or not. In the app I can see now if the gates are open or closed, but on the widget that green/red light is not shown.

I have now completed this little project and wrote a blog post on it - though garage/gate door integration has probably been done a zillion times before, it might still be of interest for anyone who is looking at the same components I am using - the Ditec VIVAH gate controller, the Shelly Plus 1 and openHAB. The project includes a script that translates the ON/OFF/Flashing of the gate open indicator lamp to a nicer OPEN/CLOSED/MOVING status.

https://www.the-ninth.com/blog/ditec-vivah-car-gates-shelly-plus-1-openhab

Zitat

Pls. Google „Shelly Dimmer 2 Rotary“

I found some projects with a rotary knob and Shelly dimmer.

If you know what pulses or voltage values your slider outputs, it may be possible to adapt that.

Otherwise, I would work with a touch sensor.

Thanks, the project you are probably referring to looks quite interesting, I will have a closer look and see if I can make it work.

I can report that it works as expected - I set it up like shown in the previous post, with 24V DC power supply from the DiTEC, and using the gate lamp pins as sensor. Both activating the doors and receiving the open status works fine, so I do not even need the reed switch.

Here are more complete picture of the wiring I think should work for the 24V approach, with using the open indicator lamp instead of a reed switch. If weather allows I'll try this setup today or tomorrow.

Wiring - 24V.png

OK, after looking at this more closely, maybe there is a better way. I see that the DiTEC also has 24V DC output, and an output for a lamp that would light up if the gate is open. Maybe I could use that instead of the reed sensor. Based on the diagrams posted above, the wiring would then look like in the image below.

Again, does this make sense, would it work this way? And is the 0.5A of the output enough to power the Shelly Plus 1?

Shelly Plus 1 24V.png

Hi,

I'd like to use a Shelly Plus 1 to control our car port entrance gates, which are managed by a DiTEC VIVAH controller, and add a reed sensor to get information whether the gates are closed.

The questions I have are:

The controller has three switching circuits that are relevant, one for open, one for close and one step-by-step for a combined open-stop-close action. If I'd want to go for independent open/close, I'd need two Shelly Plus 1 devices, correct? From your experience with such gates, which is the better approach, having only one action for open-stop-close (like with the remote control) or have two independent for open and close, which might be more handy for automation and rules?

Can you recommend any reed sensor that works well outdoors and accepts up to 230V?

I am not very experienced when it comes to electrical wiring, my understanding from the diagrams is that I'd have to do it like this. I'd take the 220V power supply and use it to power the Shelly. Therefore the reed sensor would also have to support 220V. For the actual switching, I'd connect the 1/0 of the Shelly to the terminals from DiTEC for the step-by-step action if I'd decide to go for that one. Does that make sense?

Shelly Plus 1 220V.png

Here are the wiring diagrams of the two devices:

DiTEC Vivah.png

Plus 1 AC wiring diagram.png

Thanks!

But none of those solution would support an old-fashioned slider dimmer, right? Because that is what I am looking for.

Zitat

It needs to be a push / retractive switch

Ok, and you have that one connected to SW1? Is this with the short/ long push documented somewhere? I checked the manual, but it does not say anything about how the switches are to be operated and what is the purpose of SW1/SW2.

Good morning,

I have a few lamps that have a physical in-cable dimmer and would like to connect them to our home automation via Shelly.

However, I'd like to still be able to switch and dim the lamp via the in-cable switches, ideally with a slider for dimming. Similar to what the Shelly 1PM Plus can do with a physical switch, but additionally with dimming.

I can see from the manual that the Dimmer 2 has two ports for physical switches, but how would dimming work with that? Only on button presses, or would it support a slider dimmer?

Thanks for your help!

Regards, Robert

Thanks, works great, with Switch Mode="Switch" and Relay Type="Flip" it works exactly like I want it to. I can switch the device with either the app and the physical switch. And regardless of the physical switch position, a movement of the physical switch will either switch the lamp on or off depending on its current state.