Hier wird wohl der Schalteingang dauernd als ein erkannt, oft bedingt durch in den Tastern verbaute Glimmlampen, oder aber auch durch Induktion, bedingt durch lange Kabelwege.
Sollten Glimmlampen verbaut sein, wäre die einfachste Lösung diese zu entfernen.
Ansonsten würde allenfalls der "Bukowski Draht" (Forumsuche hilft) helfen, entsprechendes Fachwissen, oder Kollegen mit solchem, vorausgesetzt.
Or you could simply use the NC contact instead of NO and then invert the Inputs in Shelly settings.
Settings --> Reverse inputs.
In aller Regel ist die Verwendung von Tastern, im Zusammenhang mit Shellies einfacher als mit Schaltern.
You could replace the the latching relay by a Shelly and have the two momentary acting push buttons wired directly to SW input of the Shelly.
Depending on existing wiring/cabling the Shelly could be installed behind one of the momentary acting push buttons (if a Neutral wire would be available, or in the Switchboard (instead of the latching relay, by using on of the available DIN rail clips).
Such you could switch the light by use of one of the Push buttons or via Smartphone.
Shelly could be confirgured that Light would go off by pressing local Push Button, by Smartphone or after a fix configured Time by Shelly (Off delay).
Without having to pull new wires, easiest would be to swap the existing latching relay by a Shelly 1.
This wiring shows the situation if the latching relay would be replaced by a Shelly 1:
https://www.shelly-support.eu/index.php?attachment/11055-ar768-tasterschaltung-png/
Here a Link to a Shelly clip which holds the Shelly on a DIN rail:
If the local Push Buttons would be equipped with a Lamp, this supply would either have to come from local available Line (Lamp would always be on), or by use of a separate wire which would then have to come from O terminal of Shelly (Lamp of local Push Button would only be on if Light would be on).
In the APP the current state of light could be checked by looking at the small vertical Line of the on/off button (grey = light is off / light blue = light is on, if activated in the App).
Least effort might be to leave the Switchboard wiring as is and install the Shelly behind one of the existing Push buttons, if a Neutral is available behind one of the two Push buttons.
If you want to do it this way, it would most probably be of a problem with illumination of local Push Buttons, then you would either need to replace the local Push buttons by a compatible type, or simply remove the illumination.
Disadvantage of this solution (with Shelly ahead of Latching relay) would be that you wouldn't know what state the light has, when looking at the App.
Once we know what you want, we might be able to provide more specific advices.
Correct wiring is shown here:
https://smarthome-forum.eu/index.php?atta…ung-eltako-png/
(if latching relay and Shelly shall be operated)
Correct setting should be: Momentary.
Often intention is to replace the latching switch by a Shelly.
Please let us know what you are intending to do/achieve?
Local Status indication needs to be connected to O connection of the Shelly.
There might be a chance to solve your problem bycuse of the first relay only.
I could imagine that this first relay allready has 2 contacts:
A1/ A2: coil
1/3: 1st contact (pump)
2/4: 2nd contact SW input of Shelly
if 2nd contact would be of Normally closed type, this could be corrected in Shelly settings.
Could you pleas share the type designation of relay used?
Here they state that it's too early to say something:
It would be an option to add a relay/contactor to the Switch Panel, but then you would need to have the switched wire running from local switch to switch panel in order of being able to activate/deactivate the relay/contactor and another wire running from relay/contactor to your heater.
This might be overkill.
Example of a type to be installed in Switch Panel:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heschen-Househ…0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
If you allready have a Shelly, it could be worth to temporary install it, in order to see, if it would overheat and turn off when controling your heater, as the load might just be on the border of Shellies capability.
I think you would either need to check if your heater has a separate control input to turn it on or off which wouldn't switch the load, or you would need to install a higher rated relay/contactor which would control the load.
Für einzelne, simple Aufgaben kann man ein Befehlsscript verwenden, welches bei Doppelklick auf das Icon, welches sich auf dem Desktop befindet, einen http- Befehl absetzt, wie: curl http://192.168.1.111/relay/0?turn=toggle.
Dies schaltet bei mir den Netzwerkdrucker im Obergeschoss ein.
Hi,
From my point of view it wouldn't get any better when combining two smart systems e.g. your smart ceiling lamp by adding a Shelly.
If you have Life, Neutral and Lamp wire available at the existing switch, you could replace your smart lamp by a generic , or Shelly compatible lamp and then add a Shelly 1 to your switch.
Such you would be able to either control your lamp by Smartphone or wall switch.
Or:
If you have Life, Neutral and Lamp wire available at the existing switch and your smart Lamp can be controled by http commands, then you could add a Shelly 1 to your wall switch, connect the Lamp wire to Life, such that the smart lamp is always energized and then you would be able to control the lamp by Smartphone or existing wall switch, which then would send a http command to your smart lamp to toggle their condition. (this solution is overkill).
In der FritzBox kann das WLAN zeitgesteuert, auf Wunsch für jeden Tag unterschiedkich aktiviert, bzw. deaktiviert werden.
WIe in der Skizze gezeigt wird es aber nicht funktionieren, da der SW Eingang immer als "Ein" erkannt wird, bedingt durch die beiden PIR Ausgänge im "Kreis".
Sollte es sich um kompatible PIR's handeln, wären diese ja an den SW Eingang zu verdrahten und die Lampe(n) dann an O. Wenn es so nicht funktioniert hilft ein Koppelrelais.
Würde der SW Eingang auf Detached umgestellt und nicht weiter zum Schalten des Shellies verwendet, so würde dies funktionieren, die Lampe(n) könnten dann über PIR oder Shelly (fern) geschaltet werden.
Alternativ könnte ein eventuell vorhandener Schalter an SW verdrahtet werden, um den SW Eingang sinnvoll verwenden zu können.
ist halt immer die Frage, was man will.
Correct, regarding your summary of PIR output/contact.
Yes, this shouldn't be of a problem:
I have a sunset criterion on one Shelly 1 for example, which turns on two living room lights a preset time after sunset, configured in Weekly shedule. Apart of that I can always switch the light on and off by a wall switch wired to SW input of the same Shelly.
Further the light gets turned off at 23:00 by another Weekly shedule.
You need a compatible PIR to use as Shelly input.
If the PIR output doesn't has a 100% dry output contact (due to overvoltage protection device or whatever), the Shelly SW input won't work, as Shelly will always see a high input signal.
This can be double checked by taking a look at input state (once activates in settings) shown at the on/off symbol of the APP (part of the symbol will turn into light blue if Shelly is seeing a high input?
If PIR output contact is off the color of the symbol has to be gray.
If this is the problem it can either be solved by using a compatible PIR sensor, or by using a interposing relay.
PIR sensors without relay contact (electronically switching) are often incompatible.
1st test can be to listen at the housing of PIR sensor when it get's activated. If a clicking noise can be heard, the chance that it is a compatible sensor are not too bad.
But still there can be electronic components before or after contact, which can make it incompatible.
On open SW input of the Shelly one can measure approx. 1/2 grid voltage (needed to use the Shelly for activating if Life or Neutral is used).
If this 1/2 grid voltage (in our region usually 230 ... 240VAC) gets too much influenced (pulled up or down) by use of not 100% dry contacts, the Shelly always see's a high Input on SW.
Hi patoganso21,
Could it be that there is a change ahead of second and third relay missing?
According current version, open and close command would always be active.
Rather then placing a 1L close to the Thermostat would there not be a chance to place a Shelly 1 (if the 1L device not allready bought) in the Boiler (environment) as there would Line, Neutral and Switched wire of Thermostat available?
Or would that be out of WIFI signal range?
The 0.8A indicated on the right sied of Boiler data sheet would more or less match the 170W indicated on the left side of Boiler data sheet.
But without knowing if the full load runs via thermosat, it's hard to guess.
Often the Thermostat is only controling the heater on/off command and the most of the load is directly connected to L.
We don't know how in reality the Thermostat is used to control heater on/off, as the Thermostat might not directly belong to the Boiler and therefore the available connection diagram only shows typical ways to use the Thermostat.
Schalten kann man leider (noch) nicht.
Ich hatte zu Beginn auch etwas Mühe, den Zustand abzulesen, war aber, wenn ich mich recht entsinne dem Umstand geschuldet, dass diese ja als Taster, nur solange leuchten, wie sie auch gedrückt werden, zusätzlich spielt noch eine Verzögerung mit rein.
